|09/07/2006 11:46:53||mark||Hi guy's,Once again my 96 is trying my patience to the limit.After a £200 m.o.t the clutch is playing up,I can't select first or reverse with the engine running,but the clutch doesn't slip! It's got fluid in it and has the recommended 4mm play in the adjustment. The thrust bearing dosent make any noise with the pedal down. Any ideas? where can i buy a clutch kit from? mk|
|09/07/2006 13:33:19||Senor Burrrrrt||Could be the adjustment in the steering column if you can select other gears OK.|
|09/07/2006 13:59:53||john||Hi Mark as Burt says if you can engage reverse and 3rd and 4th it would suggest selection is the problem rather than the clutch, if you cannot pull the rubber back where the slave cylinder goes into the box and see if you are getting movement there OK.
|10/07/2006 13:01:34||Alistair||Sounds like you have one of the clutches that don't work. There was a whole range of clutches available from a variety of suppliers including Quinton Hazell that had this problem - don't know who manufactured them on behalf of the suppliers, but they never worked. Something about the dimensions of the friction plate not being quite right so it doesn't fully disengage. I had one in one of my cars, a right PITA. If youc annot adjust the linkage as mentioned above, you may have to swap the clutch again... :o(|
|10/07/2006 17:23:27||mark||No Al its not a new clutch,that £200 was for other bits. This is a whole new problem. But I think your right the problem is the clutch not disengaging.The gear selection has been stiff but usable,and now i get crunching if i try and put it in first with engine running. mk|
|10/07/2006 19:07:51||Derek||Clutch hydraulics good? High mileage box? Clutch release arm might be worn at the pivot points reducing the amount it can push the release bearing. I'd try less than 4mm to see if it helped. There still might be some play there even with an apparent 0 mm gap.I've heard of shimming the slave cylinder to increase the push. There might be someone out there with info on this.|
|10/07/2006 20:31:37||John Wood (Woody)||Was the clutch part of MOT? Done by Jo Garage. Mechanic unfamiliar with the characheristics of V4's? As already noted first adjust your steering column so that you have all gear selection 1-4 and reverse. Then fine tune with gearbox stay adjustment so that the selection is not notchy. If you still have clutch problems, get someone to observe clutch slave operation whilst you depress and hold the clutch pedal. If the clutch arm starts to move backward then you have a hydraulic problem as well. Bleeding the clutch system is best done with a pressure pump. Check also for a wet pushrod on you clutch pedal under the dashboard to rule out a master cylinder leak.|
|10/07/2006 20:35:53||John Wood (Woody)||characteristics !!|
|11/07/2006 18:07:24||mark||no clutch problem developed days after the mot.I have gears 1-4 and reverse,but cant select first and reverse with engine running! Will try your suggestions.mk|
|11/07/2006 21:58:13||Derek||Woody, by "gearbox stay", do you mean the threaded rod between the inner wing and the engine? Please elaborate.
Mine could do with a tweak as selecting reverse often has me switching the wipers on.........
|11/07/2006 23:39:53||John||No, that is the engine stay, which is used initially to align the gear selection. On previous V4's this has usually been tightened, pulling the engine over to the left so that the end of the rod is in line with the edge of the rocker cover. Gear Selection is checked in all positions. It should be smooth. If there is a perceptible baulking then this is fine tuned with the gearbox stay which should be located between the upper wishbone mounting and an angle iron arm bolted to the side of the gearbox. I removed this on the rally car as the exhaust header passing by the gearbox caused the rubber to melt. The works cars relocated theirs. See my gallery pics. So it proves they thought it valuable enough to relocate it.
Don't worry about switching on the wipers Derek, I am sure every V4 driver has that problem. In the end it is all down to wrist action. No puns please!!
|12/07/2006 11:48:27||Derek||Thanks Woody, looks to be "out of sight, out of mind" under the battery carrier. With only 37k on the clock I doubt if anyones ever been there. It's a '76. In the factory manual I can only find reference to removing the engine stay when taking out the engine. No reference to putting it back and adjusting it. Appears to be no reference to the gearbox stay at all. A few "notes for novices" needed I think. Can you help with a few basic set-up details? Something for the "Articles" section maybe?|
|14/07/2006 10:56:28||Al||Ah, wrong end of stick entirely, Mark...
Do you use the freewheel? If so then that's probably why you only have this problem in 1st & reverse. Sounds like one or more of previous comments are the culprit - worn release arm pivot or hydraulics. Something is stopping you getting full travel & maintaining it. If you can see the slave pushing the arm out far enough and holding it, then that would suggest the pivot.
|15/07/2006 11:45:55||mark||Thanks Al. Good idea Derek an article on this subject would be very helpful. mk|