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10/06/2003 15:40:54   Tom   Has anyone got any tips on how best to set the handbrake in a V4? Last night i did it according to the manual and i've ended up with three - for which a bionic arm is required, but the brakes still don't lock rock solid. On a hill it will still roll.  
10/06/2003 17:05:42   Richard   Your rear brake levers will probably be worn and pulling at an angle rather than in the direction Saab intended ( fit them new ones lad ). This means that the hand brake will feel to be comming on, but the wear will reduce the movement and the ability for the shoes to transmit the load to the drums. Failing this both your rear wheel cylinders are weeping ( dont think its this Tom, but its good to pull ya leg ).  
10/06/2003 19:14:39   ian   There's a chance that the lever assembly has seized around its pivot pin. Presumably the brakes were adjusted before the handbrake cables were adjusted?

As a matter of interest, was the handbrake holding before the cables were adjusted?  
11/06/2003 07:51:45   Richard   make sure the adjusters have enough adjustment. Chock the front wheels, jack up both rear wheels so they are just clear of the ground, you should let the handbrake off and wind the adjusters in until the rear wheels are hard to turn by hand. If you can not do this the adjusters are worn and will need the metal sliders replacing. If you can do this then back the adjusters off until the wheels are just free and both sides are equal. Then pull the handbrake on a click at a time checking that both wheels feel equal to each other, if not adjust the cables. When fully on it should be impossible to turn the wheels by hand. If you have any probs give me a call.
 
11/06/2003 23:18:01   Tom   I got both wheels off the ground and wound the handbrake adjusters in all the way. On one side it almost locked but i could move it if i really tried. On the other side it never locked fully.

No, ther handbrake has not held well for ages and only narrowly got through the MOT last November.

I do actually have a new set of stainles steel levers, so i guess it's time for putting those in.

Thanks for all your advice Richard and Ian. Just might do this on Saturday morning.  
12/06/2003 08:42:01   Alec   Tom,
You did adjust the brake adjusting nuts on the back of the drums before doing the cable adjusters yes?
 
13/06/2003 00:38:00   Tom   Er...no. They seem to be impossible to move.  
13/06/2003 06:48:56   ian   Tom,
Before you adjusted the cables did you have an excessive amount of travel on the brake pedal particularly when the pedal was first pressed? If so, it sounds like you definitely need to adjust the shoes.

The rear brake adjusters can be a right pain to shift usually due to corrosion between the threads on the adjuster and the brake backplate; occasionally the wedges are seized in the backplate or the square end of the adjuster has been rounded off. On occasions it's a combination of all three!

I've found that success really depends on using the right sort of brake adjuster tool to avoid rounding the edges on the adjuster. If you can't get hold of the right one I've found that one of the small odd-looking 'star' sockets that you find in most socket sets does the job really well (I've forgotten the size but will have a look for it if you want to know). Try to avoid the flat 'ring spanner' type of adjusting tool that most accessory shops stock as in my experience they are next to useless on the Saabs.

If things are really bad and the adjuster is totally seized, the backplate will need to be removed from the car and the adjuster freed-off using oxy-acetylene.  
14/06/2003 10:34:16   Tom   Ian,
Thanks for the advice. No, not much travel on brake pedal. the adjuster should not present too much of a problem once i get the wheel off and go at it seriously because i actually had those adjusters out and copper greased them last November for the MOT. They just seem to have got a bit stuck since then. Yes, do let me know the size of the box spanner because all i have is a ring type spanner that will fit.
Thanks
Tom  
15/06/2003 15:41:56   ian   Tom,
The socket size is 5/16 and the particular one I use has 8 points unlike a standard socket which has 6 or 12 points for dealing with hegagonal nuts and bolts. My socket is 1/4-inch drive.

Have you ever taken the drums off?  
15/06/2003 18:30:56   Tom   Yes, the drums were off last year. Thanks for socket size. Didn't get to do the adjustment this weekend, but will soon.
 


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