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30/06/2003 14:10:31   steve h   After a conversation with highgate ken this morning i have decided to put this one to you lot.

The clutch on my restored v4 needs all the pedal throw to disengauge even when adjusted as far a possible on the bell housing. It then intermittantly will not completely disengauge and you have to remember to stop in gear and keep your foot on the brakes. Next day it will be fine again.
No fluid loss
Brand new master cylinder to try and fix the problem but it didn't.
The system has been blead (to death)

Ken is sending me a braided clutch hose as Mel recons it might be the hose ballooning.

Any other suggestions?

Thanks steve  
30/06/2003 19:00:21   ian   A problem with the flexible hose is a distinct possibility, especially when you consider the problems many of us experience with V4 brake hoses. Have you done overhauled the slave cylinder?

01/07/2003 08:05:04   Richard   Can you tell me which clutch setup you have? Is it new with new plate? have you the correct master? Was the clutch release bearing new and was the release mechanism free from play?
Can you feel any action of the clutch on the pedal. If you have no feel of the clutch until the bottom then you could have a friction plate that is too thick. You maybe able to space the cover plate of the flywheel to account for this.
If the clutch operates at the top of the pedal throw, this is usually due to the clutch plate being warn (too thin).
You can also space the clutch slave off its bracket to alter the initial position that the clutch works from.  
01/07/2003 13:31:33   steve h   The whole system was new a couple of years back and was fine to start off with. The flywheel is stage 3 lightened, but as I say, everything used to be fine. The release bearing is not the standard type being a beefier one supplied as part of the set from highgates and required a slight modification of the clips. But it used to be fine.
The pedal feel is completely different than our other car, being alot softer and easier. I might try the washers behind the cylinder trik though to see if it makes any difference.  
01/07/2003 17:02:21   Richard   Yeh I have a highgate clutch on the rally car, but had the diaphram replaced for a stiffer one along with a padle plate, which is actually alot smoother than the std fluffy highgate clutch.
Some of the early clutches were spaced of the flywheel, but if the clutch worked it sounds like it has worn. The other option is that the clutch material on the cover plate which is a pile of crap as overheated and come off the plate, this results in the lining reforming due to centrepedal forces within the flywheel reccess. It builds up so much that the car will still drive with clutch slip, but the pedal will not operate the clutch until the very bottom of the pedal throw if built up thicker than the plate thickness. This would have to have happend while driving the car.
01/07/2003 17:04:19   Richard   Correct 4th line down: cover plate should be clutch plate  
01/07/2003 23:40:51   Alistair Philpott   What you describe are the exact symptoms I had with a cheapo pattern clutch (I think it was Quinton Hazell) - wouldn't fully disengage and would crunch like hell engaging 1st & reverse.

However, that was from new, and I believe was due partly to these clutches having a slightly thicker driven plate (which could be sorted with a few minutes abuse!!) but also the manufacturing tolerances just weren't good enough, & sometimes the friction material was mounted to far in/outward on the centre splines (can't remember which & too old now to work it out!). But this is all academic if you're using the diaphragm clutch of which I have no experience!!

Whatever, sounds like you're just not getting enough travel at the clutch release arm so maybe the slave cylinder spacing trick might help?

Am I right in thinking that there are also different slave cylinder bores which might also provide different piston travel for a given pedal travel?

Or should I shut up & go to bed?  
02/07/2003 14:07:06   steve h   Hmm!

The slave cylinder is standard and original and its a sachs clutch not the diapham kit (how are they by the way?)

Not wanting to take the engine out again, i am going to try the new pipe and spacing washers behind the slave first. If that fails, it may be diaphram time (!). I will let you all know.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

04/07/2003 20:25:16   Fred   Hello,

In mine (dutch) saab v4 ik had also clucht disengagment problems in 1ste gear and backwards.
I found out that the release plate shoud be alligned with or 1mm higher than the pressure plate assy when mounted on the flywheel. In my saab i mounted some shims under the pressure plate assy and after about 8 engine removeals it really worked
In the spare parts cataloge (edition 1971 chapter 4 page 1:2) there is even drawn a shim (item 11)
When I bleed the system I make sure that the oillevel is higher than the bend in the oilline from the oil-reservoir

(sorry if mine english is not correct)  
19/08/2003 14:00:52   steve h   Having fixed my clutch last weekend I thought I would report back. (I can now also reply to your email Alistair)

Having less time than desire for scientific investigation I took the approach of replace everything and be happy if one of the things replaced fixes the problem. So with a new slave cylinder and a nice shinny overbraided hose now fitted the clutch now works as it should. The system had been previously improssible to bleed and since putting the problem to you, the slave had started leaking. I have decided that the slave must have been worn all along and been sucking air back in when the clutch was released giving the bleeding problems. The leak then confirmed this. As for the hose - well the new one looks like it makes the car go faster.  

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