|27/10/2003 19:14:02||John G||I have found a 2 stroker that has been stood up since 1971 and is in fantastic condition...but most of the rubbers have perished. I am in the prosess of replacing the wheel cylinders and have found the front hubs will not pull off ......am I missing something? I have wound the dog back so the shoes are clear of the inside of the drums and used a 3 leg puller almost to its own destruction and still it wont budge! With no manual as yet I seek your greater knowledge...or it's out with the gas spanner.|
|28/10/2003 07:56:41||Richard||I carnt see why they should not come off, you have removed the nut? I will have to look at my manual tonight as 2 strokes are not my main thing. Try dropping a mail to Dave Fielden on the SOC web page and ask him how well a 2 stroke rolls!|
|28/10/2003 14:55:04||bill rawles||I'm not sure if the 2 stroke hub is different to the v4 hub or not but the v4 hubs are on very tight. The nut on the end of the driveshaft is some incredible torque which I can't remember off the top of my head and then the hub is on tapered splines. I had my hubs off last year to fit new discs and bought a hydraulic puller to do the job, an ordinary 3 leg thing just won't look at it as you have found. Hydraulic pullers are available from machine mart or a good tool hire shop should have one.|
|28/10/2003 19:07:31||chris||is there a woodruff key on the shaft the early drum brakes sometimes used them it may be better to convert to v4 disc brakes|
|28/10/2003 19:08:14||John G||Thank you...The nut came off with no problems so I dont think that it is torqued up any more than the rears were. ( I once had 2 people standing on a scaffold bar trying to undo the hub nut on a V.W) I have A SAAB parts book that shows the shaft is not splined so I have orderd a hydraulic puller and will let you know how things go!|
|29/10/2003 07:46:14||Richard||The torque should not be high as we are dealing with a drum, if it was tight the bearing would be crimped.|
|29/10/2003 18:15:51||John G||I had a go with a van hub puller and it still wont budge! There appears to be a channel down two sides of the shaft, but I cant see a woodruff key, unless it is well into the hub..if it is then i cant retreve it / them. I got a hydraulic puller but it was'nt wide enough to get the bolts in..ho hum! I guess my next step will be finding somewhere with a press but this will have its own problems as there isnt a great deal to press against as the backing plate is still attached.|
|30/10/2003 14:00:29||Alistair||Are you sure the shoes have pulled back from the drum? I'd have though it was possible for them to sieze solid over 30-odd years. Might be worth trying some heat on the drum and/or also some "percussion engineering" - beat hell out of it with a lump hammer (in the intended direction of travel). Works on V4 rears....|
|30/10/2003 15:55:45||Senor Burt||I was going to suggest the lump hammer method, It always worked for me, but didn't want to be accused of being a rough b*st*rd and it can crack the drum I've heard, but it's never happened to me.
Do the drums turn freely? If so, then the shoes haven't locked to them.
Hammering will force some movement into the assembly, hopefully cracking off bits that have corroded together.
|30/10/2003 19:43:45||John G||The drums spin freely and when I wound the dog back I could see the shoes move. I have removed the whole assembly and left them to soak with penetrating oil and will have a go at the week end...the big hammer method was my first move and as you say is usually a good method I even resorted to talking nicely to them but that didnt work.........time for a pint and some therapy!|
|31/10/2003 10:05:08||Alistair||Back to the drawing board then. Hmm.|
|31/10/2003 13:14:41||ian||It might not be much help to learn that the rear stub axle shafts on early V4's are tapered, consequently the hubs can be a right pig to remove.
From the parts book it looks like the stubs on the outer drive shaft fitted to earlier strokers are also tapered.
The easiest way to get hubs off is using the correct Saab puller rather than one of the multi-legged devices.
|01/11/2003 17:44:35||Alec||Next step is probably heat - get a blowtorch and heat parts (as evenly as possible) to a good temperature and hopefully the expansion/contraction will help.|
|01/11/2003 18:08:17||John G||I DID IT! There were two woodfuff keys on the shaft so I hammerd the shaft the wrong way then with the aid of a 4lb club hammer clouted the shaft (protected), on the third wollop the stub axle shot across the floor throwing the numerous springs that hide behind the bearing with it. Thank you to every one who contributed. Does anyone have the correct pulling device for this job? SAAB part no 78 40 028. It looks like this is the only effective way of removing the drum.|
|01/11/2003 23:14:28||Alistair||Sometimes you just can't beat a bit of brute force & ignorance...|
|03/11/2003 11:57:17||Senor Burt||The hammer sounds pretty effective to me!|
|03/11/2003 18:58:03||John G|
|03/11/2003 19:03:14||John G||Another minimal reply!? What I was going to say was that it cost me a castlated nut to protect the stub end. Namrick to the rescue!|
|19/01/2004 01:13:30||Sandi||I just acquired a 1971 Saab Sonett 111 and it needs some work. Does anyone know where I can get a repair book/owners manual for this car?|