|29/06/2004 12:17:12||ian||right thats got your attention...how do we make our v4 handle a bit better....just done leukemia historic and on the tests she leans a lot...she is basically standard....suggestions include billys on front, spax on back and leave springs as they are...open to CHEAP suggestions|
|29/06/2004 16:04:05||Alistair||Stiffer gas shocks will certainly help, but only a little where body roll is concerned. You need to think about stiffer and/or lower springs. Anti roll bar seems to be a matter of personal taste (I don't like 'em, others do!)
Some people have chopped standard springs by a coil or so to give a slightly higher overall spring rate, lower ride height & COG, most people seem to have gone the S&R route - but beware, on tarmac you can end up with a top heavy car as Rich proved at Elvington !!!
You can chop S&R fronts as they're a static rating but you can't easily chop S&R rears as they're progressively wound.
Standard springs did vary from year to year. If you have the Haynes manual, it has a brief description of the # coils and uncompressed length. You can always go for the shorter, stiffer (more coils) ones.
My last road car had Monroe gas on the back and standard on the front. This lifted the back end just a little and reduced the understeer, plus gave more body control. The rally car had Billies all round with S&R springs and 185/65s, I never had the top-heavy problem Rich had, but that was only the road...as if that made a difference to an 18 year old!!!
|29/06/2004 17:06:09||Richard||Crap tyres on the rear! I am not joking, I always use good tyres on the front and naff on the back on the road car. Its cheap! I understand you have got road sections, so you would 'loose' out on these.
Stiffer springs would help body roll, but you will need to get a balance. I think 'coil spring UK' (Sheffield) have the details for the works springs and they quoted us £135+VAT for a set of four Skoda springs to our spec the other week.
I have a set of works front and some 320lb/in fronts from Andrews Sonnet rally car. I could lend you a pair to try for a couple of events, or if Coil spring dont have the data I am going to have some springs tested their so could take the saab items for testing as well. I would need them back though as my front springs are getting tired. Skoda 120/swing axle rear springs are probably stiffer (260lb) and of a similar length to the Sonnet springs I have, they may sit low but you could make a spring spacer. I can get these new old stock £15 a pair, they do have closed coils both ends.
You can bend the steering arms towards the wheel, this is suppose to give better turn in (Partigton mod). The other mod used by K. Patterson is not legal, but you cut the trailing arm mounts and weld them and new metal so they sit higher, when the car leans the rear axle is pushed by one side and pulled by the other giving rear wheel steering.
I run the track parallel to slight toe out at the front and 1.5 deg neg camber (watch the upper arm bolt length).
You could also have some bushes made for the suspension or buy some from Xpower in sweden, Colin W uses them and it sharpend up his car.
Your best be is talking to Colin W. has he goes well with a V4 in similar events. I know he uses aggressive tyres on the front compaired to the rear to get turn in.
|29/06/2004 22:04:12||simon||Cheapest method I could work up;
Cut 1/3 or 1/2 turn from front springs.
Fit standard anti roll bar (if not there;).
Fit 99 front dampers, gas ideally.
DRAMATIC improvement therewithin.
|30/06/2004 08:07:19||Richard||Tyre pressure 25psi front 30 rear on gravel. Colin uses higher rear pressure than this sometimes. Up on the NESCRO they are carring cylinders of air to pump tyres up between road and tests, but organisers are banning the cylinders from what I have been told.
Position the co-drivers seat as far back as you can to try moving the weight back in the car and try different fuel levels in the tank (that is not a reference to the car although it is the same colour as a tank). I find the std car understeers with two up, but has a better balance for getting the rear end out with one or three up (yes a friend had to sit in the back to prove this while looking down the road out of the side window and then flying head first across the seat).
The spax dampers are pants for comp work, they over-heat and the adjustment fails. The avo's are Ok and have adjustment and the billies valved to works spec we have are the best I have used, but not adjustable. The front billies give alot of damping, the rears are quite soft for a comp car, but they work.
Perspex the side widows, thats cheap, but vision is poor at night compaired to glass (you know all this you old bugger).