|13/10/2004 09:23:03||SteveB||Hi Folks,
It seems like LRP petrol is becoming more difficult to get where I live. What's my best course of action ?
I put unleaded in last time I filled up and the car seems to run OK. What do other Saabers recommend, should I retard the timing, add a lead substitute or save up for new valve seats ?
|13/10/2004 09:47:43||Senor Burt||I think the reason that they're phasing it out is that most classic car owners have realised that unleaded plus a decent additive is much better that LRP.
If you run your car on unleaded for much longer you WILL get valve seat recession.
When I switched from LRP I was amazed at how much more easily my 96 started up.
Use additive. You could always get the heads converted as and when you have any major engine work done.
|13/10/2004 13:39:24||paul h||I have been using LRP since I bought my 96 some 18 months ago, basically because the previous owner used LRP. I too have noticed fewer garages stocking it. On my first long trip earlier this month (450 miles round trip) I bought some real leaded at a Bayford Thrust filling station near York, at 109.9p per litre it tested my wallet, but I thought it ought to be worth it now and again.
I guess I will switch to unleaded plus an additive before long, although I've never had a problem starting using LRP, and the car isn't garaged.
Thanks for the advice. What aditive(s) do you recommend. Should I add a lead substitue or an octane booster or something else ??
|13/10/2004 17:18:47||Simon||I have been using a make of in line fuel catalist on my cars for a number of years with no problems. Plumb it in and ya done. HOWEVER they do need lead memory on your seats before fitting and are aided by the use of lead in the fuel for the first couple of tanks. Apparently they reduce the temp at which the fuel burns, thus saving your valve seats.|
|13/10/2004 20:54:11||James Ayres||This is one of those topics which runs and runs... The simple science is that higher octane fuel burns more efficiently, hence burns at a lower temperature - always a good thing, less heat damage. LRP (which I use, always from Tesco) is inconsistant as there is no industry standard. Use what works best in terms of performance, I also add Castrol Valve Master with Octane Boost and my 96 runs fine, however, when I fill it with normal unleaded and the additive, it also runs fine. My advice is to use the highest octane fuel you can find and the Castrol Valve Master with Octane Boost. If this works well, great. Eventually, you will need work on your engine, take on board what Senor Burt says and get the valves/unleaded conversion done then. Best of Luck.
ps check previous postings for more interesting comments
|14/10/2004 12:55:39||Alistair||It may be worth using SUL + additive rather than ordinary UL, as that way you have 97 RON and don't need to retard the ignition (assuming it's not an octane bossting additive you use but a lead replacement additive).
There have been so many mixed reports about these so called catalysts. Personally I take it all with a hefty dose of scepticism. There's no such thing as a free ride. You can't change the chemistry of the petrol just by putting something in the fuel line unless that thing is actually adding something to the fuel, in which case it's not a catalyst at all and will eventually run out of whatever it's adding to the fuel. Just my 2p...
|14/10/2004 13:39:53||Simon||A very good 2p Alistair and one which voices my 'thoughts' on the subject. I was simply offering my 'experience', which is so far, so good.
As James says, there is plenty of referance to it here as well as else where.
|15/10/2004 13:46:54||steve h||Yes this subject does run and run.
As I said last time, I would get your heads done and have done with it. Things will run much better after the de coke and new valve seals this involves anyway. If you dont want to do this yet, just bung unleaded in till eventually when the values regress you have to have the job done. But only when you get bored with the performance dropping off. We are not talking dramatic failure here.
If you can take the heads off yourself, it only costs around £100 to have them modified at somewhere like Gosnays. I had both my v4s done 4 years ago and havent looked back after 30k miles or so.
Oh.. and catalyst = con.
(My 2p worth)(again)
|17/10/2004 19:18:24||paul||I luckily have a leaded station near me, but it's quite a price to fill up at £1.10 a litre! What is the difference between LRP and old fashioned Leaded?
PS. I found it on www.leadedpetrol.co.uk if that helps anyone.
|18/10/2004 10:24:23||Senor Burt||LRP uses non-lead additives (obviously) which are apparently not as good as lead.
Leaded petrol available now is a lot higher octane so you can run higher compression ratios. I would have thought that there are some old cars that won't run happily on LRP or unleaded with additive.
LRP was lower octane than standard unleaded, it really was horribly weak.
|18/10/2004 16:50:29||Richard||Or use 30pc mix of AVGAS.|