I have been trying to bleed the coolant in my engine for some time. In the manual it says there is a bleed nipple on the highest part of the system. I have looked at where it is marked on the diagram and everywhere else with no luck. My car doesn't seem to have one! Can u tell me where i should be looking and if some models don't have a bleeding tap/nipple. My car is a 1976 model by the way.
This a great forum, have found it invaluable in working on my car. Many thanks
|23/01/2005 17:09:20||Senor Burt||It's a brass thing on the LHS (from front of car) of the heater box.
I'm almost certain 76 model has it there. All the 70's 96s I've seen do.
|23/01/2005 19:03:36||Tom||Will take a look, is it a tap or a screw nipple? the haynes wasn't to specific.
Thanks for the help.
|23/01/2005 20:19:20||ian f||It looks like the bleed valve fitted to most V4 radiators ie an 11mm (or 7/16 inch if you prefer) nut with a short length of brass tube protuding from its centre). Make sure the heater control is in the 'hot' position when you bleed the cooling system.|
|23/01/2005 20:49:59||Tom||Ah ha! have found it! was exactly as described and where it was said to be. THe haynes manal showed it in a different place. Can properly bleed my coolant system now. Thanks to u all.|
|24/01/2005 16:04:56||simon||They are in slightly different palces, dependent apon model year.|
|26/01/2005 13:09:29||Derek||What's the best way of doing this? I've run a plastic tube from the bleed to the rad until it runs freely with the thermostat open. Close bleed, top up rad then recheck expansion bottle level after a short run. Have to say it has suffered from the usual(?) boil over when stuck in hot traffic now and again. Rad now flushed and fitted with a front electric fan but not yet fitted,so fingers crossed!
Mines a '76 too.
|26/01/2005 15:05:41||Richard||A v4 with a good rad, water pump and cooling system should be fine in traffic even on a hot day. If you keep loosing water check the water pump is not failing, this will kill the head gasket on a V4 if you run with air in the system as non gets to the heads.|
|27/01/2005 08:42:34||Penny||My 95 ran hot in traffic and on the motorway, until I had the Rad re-cored with a modern core. This costed about £60.00 at my local radiator specialist.How ever much you flush the rad out it never seems to work. With modern petrol engines run much hotter. Extra fans just relive but not solve the problem.|
|27/01/2005 10:44:29||Richard||Never had the engine running hot on any of my V4's stood in traffic. Penny your rad would have been in poor condition if a recore sorted the problem. There is no difference in technology between a recore and the old rad, they can put more fins on and alter the spacing between the rows and add and an extra row which make a slight difference (as its behind all the others).
I run two cars with std size rads with extra cores and electric fans (gives better control of the air flow as you can have a high flow through the rad at low engine speeds). Both cars have 140bhp plus and they dont go above normal on the gauage. It also helps to run a good glycol antifreeze 25% to 50% as this has a higher boiling point than water, therefore increases the cooling for the engine. Have a look at what racing cars use in there rads, it an't water and they arn't expecting frost.
|27/01/2005 12:16:23||Alistair||Most V4s will have had a leak at some point and if the rad was not fixed properly, will have gotten filled with Radweld or other short-term fix crap - this gunks up the good bits of the rad as well as the leak - that's why they run hot, along with general crud that develops in the coolant over 30-odd years & gets deposited in the rad. If everything else is OK then the recore is the way to solve it, as Rich says.|