|01/03/2005 14:54:49||paul||hey guys, is there any way of getting hold a 1.7 engine in this country? im not really bothered about power but i want more torque through the range, do you reckon it would make a big difference?
|01/03/2005 15:50:47||jonny||I reckon if you are going to do anything about seriously increasing power for normal use a 1.7 crank is the way to go try Motorsport Sweden they should be able supply you with one.|
|01/03/2005 16:18:02||bill rawles||Highgate sometimes have some or otherwise take a look at the link to Jack Ashcraft's site, the dollar exchange rate is very favourable at the moment so even shipping one from the states might be worth thinking about depending how deep your pockets are!|
|02/03/2005 17:35:24||Alistair||They do make a big difference, but would be best with a decent carb & exhaust too.|
|04/03/2005 14:15:45||Steve H||I got my 1.7 crank from the old car and part shop in Munich. I think the contact details have been added to the links page of this site. You have to combine it with new pistons to get the top deck height right. I think mine are low comp. ones for a ford focus that I got the engine bored to fit. The competition ones run at an agressive compression ratio that means a rebuild every couple of thousand miles.
It is all worth it though. I have also got the next cam up, twin choke carb and highgates twin pipe. It's fast, loud and torquey and has run for 25k with no problems
|11/03/2005 00:43:37||Max||Hi Steve,
what did you pay at the oldcars.de shop? I think it's rather expensive there...
As you may have read I am planning to get a 1.7 to myself too. My plan is to buy an old engine from a Ford Taunus Germany firefighters car. They always had 1.7 engines and where serviced pretty good. Price should be less than 100€ normally.
And then you can sell the 2bbl manifold at 130€ to the US and got plenty of power almost for free...
|11/03/2005 10:00:06||Senor Burt||Why not run the 2bbl manifold as well? Even SAAB had realised the benefits of the a twin-choke carb by the end of the production run of the 96.
It seems like a backward step to replace it with something inferior. It also gives you more options if you ever decide to tune the engine firther.
found myself a 1.7 crank... whats the crack with putting the engine together. does it NEED new pistons/rods etc? I guess i need i rebore since the stroke is changing... would that be it? what kind of pistons/rods do i need? will the cam be ok? are the journal sizes the same on the two cranks? any other tips?
|17/03/2005 07:53:51||Richard||You can use the std rods, but v6 or scorpio rods are stronger, but not really required for a mild engine. The easy options on the pistons are ford v6 - low compression and you will need to skim the heads to get it back to std compression, Pinto pistons - higher compression (piston to top of block), so you may need to open the cambers in the head out. The Pinto items come in sizes that suit the std bore. You can use anything upto 94mm dia. Both are cheap (cast) and can run a compression ratio of 10.5:1 max, see Burton powers web page.
I would fit a s&r (ford) four stud manifold and 28/36 or 32/36 carb to help things along.
|18/03/2005 19:43:20||paul||Out of interest richard, do you know what the compresion ratio would be for each type of piston if the heads were unaltered (i might decide to play with forced induction)? I saw you run 10:1 on your hill climb car, how often does it need a rebuild and what octane fuel do you run it on?