It's probably already been said in the forum! But...
I'm planning on rebuilding my gearbox (before it breaks) which is mounted on my 120bhp engine. At the moment the gearbox works OK when warm. It's sometime difficult to change gear when cold but that's probably not helped by the linkages being far from their best. And even when warm I can't change gear rapidly. Also when cornering and applying power early, there's transmission shudder (so now a only apply full power on straights), which I presume could be wear on the inner cv joints (not checked yet) and/or a lack of additional engine/gearbox supports.
So, what needs to be done/checked when rebuilding a gearbox and how could I solve the above problems?
|04/06/2005 21:07:40||Alistair||Check all your mounts for wear and think hard about additional rear block/bellhousing mounts. Sort your linkage out, it'll only get worse. Rich has yet to publish his on-the-fly mod from Elvington for the flexi joint in the linkage which improved his gearchange no-end...|
|05/06/2005 10:03:17||John Wood ( "Woody")||Would confirm Alistair's comments. Personally, if you are using this vehicle daily, I would strongly recommend installing "Mexico Type" supports and the modified support under the transmission. Email me if you would like some photos of installation. If the rear transmission mounting is ok it should not need any modification. I would also check the condition of your transmission side stay. Even with the extra bracing this is still necessary to fine tune your linkage. Unfortunately, to install the "Mexico" brackets you will have to remove the engine/Box. Whilst the box is out you could remove the cover and check the baulking rings on your synchro hubs. If these are worn, they do not slow the shaft down enough to facilitate smooth selection of a gear. You also have the choice of opening it further to check on the condition of bearings etc. Probably a good time to have the box checked by an expert. NOTE there is one of the cushions needed for brackets on ebay at moment-8801706. I made copies of the brackets 10years ago and sourced the cushions through Ford dealer. Same as Ford Capri? cannot find the receipt at present for part no.|
Would you please email me some photos of the "Mexico Type" supports etc. I've put a request here as your email address is not valid.
|05/06/2005 15:43:08||John Wood ( "Woody")||pics sent.|
|06/06/2005 08:08:13||Richard||I have always made gearbox side mounts up and never had to remove the box, just do one side at a time. If you are making them from scratch you need the engine and box in plus the rubber bush you are going to use on the floor to get all the dimensions correct.
The rear box bush die and I run a 3-5mm thick bar across the rear to stop the engine moving forward.
Get your linkage done first, you can re pin it with bigger pins to take up the slop in the UJ and make sure the flexi joint is in good condition. We are going to make a polly flexi joint at some time to replace the three layers of Steve's mudflap that was used at Elvington.
Then if you have the box out I would have it rebuilt, so you know what condition it's in and to save having to hump the engine and box out again.
The CV's usually show up on full lock, but check these before pulling the box apart.
|13/06/2005 21:47:33||Jon||Thanks for the info. Just come back from holiday hence delayed reply.
Richard, what are the symptoms of the inner joints failing?
|14/06/2005 12:38:17||Richard||The inners have needle rollers on the drive end of the drive shaft. They dont wear like the outers, the needle roller bearings could die or the shaft they are rolling on could wear as a result. The outer cup could wear and I suppose if you jack the car up hold the cup and get someone to rock the wheel it would give you an idea of the free play between the two parts.|