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07/08/2005 22:14:20   simon   Hallo Bart,
Two things come to mind but may be of no help?

Could you not turn the plate through 180*?

Should there not be a gasket to space between the two metal items?

s  
08/08/2005 01:29:59   John Wood ( "Woody")   Hi Bart, good photos.
You could get around the first problem by using a thicker gasket or double up on the gasket. You could make your own thicker gasket with special motor jointing, made by Halls gaskets. I shall have to check if this is still available as the pack I have is 33 years old.
I suspect the carburettor is the wrong type for the manifold. Are there any numbers on the casing after DGAV? Apparently there were 20+ types, but there is little info to suggest what the fixing dimensions are between models. One would have expected them to be the same. This proves otherwise.
As a last resort, if the venturi/barrels match to the spacer then you could file out the holes, provided that such filing is not going to weaken the base.
It would seem that Ford were the major user of the 32/36 DFV/DGAV from 1500cc to 2000cc.  
08/08/2005 12:44:10   Richard   Either of the above ideas for the first problem.
The second, you need to open up the spacer plate for the bigger choke size.  
08/08/2005 18:29:45   Bart   Simon, I had already thought about turning the plate 180 degrees but that doesn't fit because the carterventilation tube (the vertical pipe) is in the way of the accel. pump. The gasket is not on the photo, but I tried it with gasket under the bonnet and because the original gasket is about 1mm thick, the mixture screw still hits te brake-servo connection.

Woody, maybe it's also possible to sharp something of the brake-servo connection with something like a Dremel. I would only need to remove about 1-2 mm to get enough space. I don't understand why you think I maybe have the wrong carburettor because all the 32/36 DG(A/E)V models have the same body with the mixture screw on the same place. I would think everyone who converts from Solex 32/32 to Weber 32/36 should have this problem due to the changed choke sizes. The complete model number is "32/36 DGAV 33b 101". Is it nessecary for those two holes in the plate to exist or is it also possible to make one oval opening by removing the material between the two holes? The gasket included in the repair kit has also an oval opening instead of the one of the original Solex carburettor which has two exact holes matching the barels of the Solex.

Richard, with opening up the spacer plate for the bigger choke sizes you mean the same as Woody? Filing or cnc'ing the original plate ?  
08/08/2005 20:05:29   Clive   Just had a look your photos and I noticed the spacer plate is different to the one I recently got with a double choke inlet manifold. Whereas yours has two pipes coming off it mine only has one. I intended to use mine with a 28/36 DCD. Do I need a different spacer plate?

Sorry if you would have prefered me to start a new thread but I felt it was sort of related to your query.

 
08/08/2005 20:09:39   Alex   Bart, before you do anything drastic (maybe ending up in something drastically stupid...) go buy yourself a heat insulation plate. BCCP should have these in stock. It's 5mm thick. When you put this between the vacuum plate and the carb you're fine. I'll mail you some pictures, if you want you can put them on your site for everyone to see (I don't have a website myself or anything to put pictures on and don't have the time to get after that). On your pictures the adjustment screw is quite far out so that is already aggravating the problem. I indended to take a photo of the Sonett engine but then I saw that the insulation plate is missing there (and still everything works well...). What the vacuum plate concerns, put a grind stone on a power drill and have a go at the secondary bore; you'll have it widened in no time.  
08/08/2005 20:22:13   John Wood (   The underside photo suggested that the fixing holes were out of alignment rather than the barrel holes. I have always wondered why the 32/36 adaptor plate was different to the same for the 40DFI. In this case remove the material altogether so you have an oblong shape. Yes you could shave some material off the spacer near the mixture screw but that could weaken the material and cause a fracture. Using double gaskets would be easier and probably safer.  
08/08/2005 21:06:35   Alex   Bart, your email works funny. I am getting delivery errors back. Please send me a mail so that I can respond.

Alex  
11/08/2005 22:07:28   Alex   Sure did; was done in 5 minutes. An interesting thing I noticed on a DGAV I have in store: it has an mixture screw that goes all the way in the opening so there is nothing sticking out of the hole. It's kept in place by a rubber washer just behind the head.  
18/09/2005 19:14:33   Bart   Finally got time to finish my carb conversion project.

After widening the holes in the brake-servo plate and installing the heat insulation plate everything fits. The engine runs fine after some adjustments but it smokes and smells more than normal, so I thought it was running too rich.

I installed the colortune to fine-tune the carb, but I'm not able to get the color blue. It stays orange (too rich), even when screwing in the mixture screw almost completely.
With the colortune in it also don't run as nice as with the normal spark plug.

Jetting (primary/secondary):

main: 140/140
emulsion tube: F50/F50
air: 170/160
idle: 50/60
venturi: 3,5/3,5
accel pump nozzle: 50

What am I doing wrong here?

Thanks, Bart  
18/09/2005 19:16:00   Bart   Forget to mention: This is a 1700cc V4 engine.  
18/09/2005 19:16:09   Bart   Forgot to mention: This is a 1700cc V4 engine.  
19/09/2005 07:53:03   Richard   Get it to the rollers and have the lot done unless you want to spend an age buying new jets etc. No two engines are the same, so you can only use someones setting as a base setting. Your idle could be too large.  
19/09/2005 19:24:24   Bart   According to the colortune sheet a too high float-level or a blocked air idle fuel jet could cause this problem. During rebuild I checked the float-level and it was on factory specification. All jets are cleaned with some help from a compressor. Should I check these things again before starting a search for a carb. expert (very scarce over here...)

thanks, bart  
20/09/2005 07:57:30   Richard   You can always check again. If its too rich you have too much fuel to air ratio, so a smaller idle jet is required or more air. To sort it your self you would need a few idle jets in smaller stages, or larger air.
You need to go to a competition specialist if you carnt find a good rolling road. Someone that deals with ford engines from the 1970's should have a collection of jets to try.  
20/09/2005 08:00:05   Richard   One option is to get a lot smaller idle jet and open it up with a needle.  
21/09/2005 22:30:49   Alex   Bart, I compared your jets with data I have from various 32/36's that are on V4s and your jets are exactly the same as is on the 96 of a guy I know. His engine is also a 1700 version, with an Simons exhaust and a Pertronix. However, there is a difference in locations: his air is 160/170 and idle 60/50. I have not heard him about running rich at idle so try with a jet swap, it might help. BCCP has a dyno where you can have your car tested but I read they charge about 450 Euros per hour so buying a handful of jets is cheaper.  
22/09/2005 12:47:20   Richard   A good idea is to buy the book 'Power tuning weber DCOE' and the other book which details 90pc of all the weber carbs. You might think that the DCOE book wont be of any use, but a carb is a carb. The info on roalling road and testing the performance of the carb on the road is applicable to all carbs. It also explains choke selection and jeting to suit the choke, capacity etc, all useful stuff!  
09/10/2005 19:23:49   Bart   Still not on the road with my 96. Alex, I think swapping the idle and air-corrector jets would richen the mixture because there will be less air and more fuel.

There is possibly another cause for this problem: I came in contact with a technician from oldcars.de which told me, with help of the enginenumber, that it's a 1500cc Low Compression engine and not the 1700cc I thought. Very strange because the engine was equiped with a Solex 32/32 TDID carb, which normally is only mount on 1700cc engines (70-75bhp).
But if it's true, I've mounted a carb which is set-up for a 1800cc mgb engine on a 1500cc ford v4 and I can imagine these symptoms occur. I drove through our street yesterday left a considerable smoke curtain behind me. Also rev'ing the engine in our garage gives a lot of smoke. Checked floatlevel, lowered it a little bit although it was on factory specification.

Can the jetting of the original Solex carb give some information which can be used for tuning the Weber, or is this not comparable? In that case, what other start point can I use for a 1500cc engine.

Spark plugs are replaced, ignition is original (old coil, no pertronix or similar system installed). I'm thinking on reverting back to the Solex if I cannot get it running nice within the next couple of weeks as because of the bad weather which is coming up (have no garage).  
10/10/2005 21:42:29   Bart   Update: ordered today a pertronix electronic ignition unit along with a new coil, to exclude the ignition too. Going to check the valve clearances and then further on the carb.  
10/10/2005 22:04:00   Alex   Bart, your assumption that Solexes were only used on 1700 engines is wrong. The Solexes were standard on the 1500 engines from 1976 or 1977 until the end of production. Did Mr.Oldcars.de give the compression ratio that goes with a low compression engine? I have never heard of low compression 1500 engines in relation to Saab. Standard compression is 9:1.

The jetting of the 32/36 I have on the Sonett (with 1500 engine) reads as follows:

main: 135/130
emulsion tube: F50/F6
air: 165/160
idle: 55/50
venturi: 3,5/3,5
accel pump nozzle: 50

This setup runs a bit on the lean side; when accellerating there is a hickup before the engine picks up and over 4000rpm it runs a bit out of breath. On the other hand the car does over 11km to the litre. The car has a Pertronix and Highgate exhaust.  
10/10/2005 22:41:37   Bart   What should be a reliable way to determine the engine type / cylinder capacity?  
11/10/2005 12:02:13   Alex   Lift a cylinder head and measure the stroke. Put the head upside down and fill a combustion chamber with liquid; measure the amount of liquid. Another way is finding the engine nr (don't ask me where it is located on the engine block)and Google till you drop.  
11/10/2005 13:53:48   Bart   Well, engine number is known and I'm Googling for a day now without result.  


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