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T O P I C    R E V I E W
scallyrallyPosted - 07 Jan 2010 : 14:57:48
Im trying to setup the carb (weber 34ich) as per gentys advice on his website - but having problems setting up the idle speed screw - its taking far more than 4 full turns from the point where the screw is not in contact with the throttle stop lever get an acceptable idle.

Im also getting oil coming up the dipstick - the dipstick is not the tightest of fits but have tried 2 and they both seem the same

Also getting a fair amount of smoke coming up the breather hose from the left hand rocker cover (as if you were standing in front of the car) which then connects to the carb filter housing)
I can post some pics if needed

Cheers!!
15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
scallyrallyPosted - 16 May 2010 : 21:45:31
Release bearings were both Sachs


We did notice wear on both engine at the bronze/phosphorus? bushing
We wondered whether this was preventing the spline from fully engaging and as we did not have the tools with us to replace the bushing we just cleaned and evened it up with some emery cloth - as you can see the engine we took out the seal was also perished

scallyrallyPosted - 16 May 2010 : 21:08:45
Did not really notice as we were more concerned that that the engine would not mate up with the original clutch fitted - we did notice that there was a small difference in length with the gearbox splines and that what made us think that perhaps there was a mod to the gearbox to take the diaphragm clutch - Its only now that Im going through the forum reading the posts about the clutches that I can see the problems people have had. We basically swapped over release bearings and the flywheel for the diaphragm clutch , used a gearbox spline for clutch alignment and slid the friction plate on which was exactly the same as the one from the original clutch then the clutch housing and had no problems mating up the engine to gearbox - Dont think I noticed a sprung steel ring in the friction plate area like some of the pics ive seen though - Ill hopefully have the car running in the week so time will tell - There were no problems before with clutch or gearchanges using the diaphragm setup and what seems like the original release bearing in fact were very smooth and precise
pchristyPosted - 16 May 2010 : 19:36:05
Did the diaphragm clutch have the adapter ring in the middle? Basically the diaphragm clutch needs the release bearing to be nearer to the engine. Early attempts to fit them used a special adapter in the middle of the diaphragm. These were prone to dislodging!

Later versions used a different - thicker - bearing.

http://www.saab-v4.co.uk/speedball/topic.asp?topic_id=799&whichpage=6

http://www.saab-v4.co.uk/speedball/topic.asp?topic_id=2050

--
Pete
"Duct tape is like the Force: It has a light side and a dark side, and it binds the Universe together!"
scallyrallyPosted - 16 May 2010 : 10:25:08
The clutch release bearings were both the same!! the one originally attached to the diaphragm clutch had some play in it so we changed over to the one from the standard clutch.
pchristyPosted - 16 May 2010 : 08:51:49
The clutch release bearing is also different on a diaphragm clutch! It appears to be considerably "thicker" (for want of a better way of describing it)!

I would guess this was what was preventing your gearbox from going fully home.

--
Pete
"Duct tape is like the Force: It has a light side and a dark side, and it binds the Universe together!"
john-saabPosted - 16 May 2010 : 08:51:31
Good progress.
RE the faulty engin..i had the same problems at the same time as you were first posting about it and my engine has now been removed i found that the rear balance shaft bearing was shot and had moved forward..i'm guessing you have a similar problem as mentioned by others earlier!
scallyrallyPosted - 15 May 2010 : 23:07:41
Ok I know its been a while but have made some progress!!
Had the pleasure of my uncle - a bus mechanic specializing in engines and gearboxes with of over 40 yrs experience and a classic car enthusiast ( peerless owner) helping me today
The engine in the the carolina blue 95 had such low compression that he was surprised it would even start and run! - so out came the engine nice and easy in a leisurely 30mins. When it came out we found it had a diaphragm clutch and from what Ive ready on here a flywheel to suit with studs etc
The spare engine I had was using a standard flywheel with a F & S clutch - so we decided just to use this as it was. Problems!! We could not get the the engine to line up fully on the gearbox spline - It would go on enough to engage the spline so that it would drive the car but could not get it to slide on the spline enough to mate the engine to the gearbox fully ( anyone had this problem before?) We wondered if maybe the gearbox had been modified in any way to accept the diaphragm clutch? So after taking an old spare gearbox apart to use the spline for a clutch alignment tool we changed over the clutch and flywheel to the diaphragm ones.
No problems at all and this mated up easily on to the gearbox spline :) - So one engine in and left it as that for today as we felt we needed a few welsh ales! So hopefully now tomorrow ( weather depending as we are working outside) I'll connect the rest up and get it started.
scallyrallyPosted - 24 Mar 2010 : 18:58:33
Still have not had time to do a compression test yet due to work time restraints :c but have swapped a used PCV valve from other car and it has certainly improved things - I have used the car back and for to work a few times and oil is only now coming out of dipstick after about 1/2 hour driving but temp needle take about 1/2 hour to get anywhere near the middle but if stuck in traffic at idle the needle reaches the red - and goes back down to just under middle when driving again - so i am guessing the heads gaskets ??
I have managed to get my other engine out - and will rebuild one of them as much as I need( will rebuild both eventually but main concerns are to get a working engine for charity rally at end of june) just cant decide which one yet hoping compression test will help with that!! - Couple of questions
Where are new PCV valves available from? my local motor factors were of no help
Both oil dipsticks are the same and both seem quite a loose fit - is this normal?
Are new/ good used dipsticks available?
What temp thermostat do people recommend? or are they all the same?

Cheers!!
john wyattPosted - 06 Feb 2010 : 10:29:16
The first car i had I cleaned all the black sludge off the rocker cover insides, didnt half make it noisier!, best to buy/borrow a compression tester befor you do much else and check compression on both engines.
UK_SubPosted - 05 Feb 2010 : 22:25:02
I got the same message - went away for a bit and now my post is there . . .

slight glitch maybe?
DerekPosted - 05 Feb 2010 : 19:15:45
Both times I posted it I got a server error so I gave up. Came back to find both of them on the thread. 1 now deleted, even had to have 2 goes at that.

This one didn't appear normally. Had to go and open another thread, came back and it was there OK. this is the error I got.

Server object error 'ASP 0177 : 800401f3'

Server.CreateObject Failed

/speedball/inc_mail.asp, line 55

800401f3

I expect I'll get the same message when I post this edit...............
No, I didn't!
UK_SubPosted - 05 Feb 2010 : 19:11:32
You know how to make your point Derek
DerekPosted - 05 Feb 2010 : 19:05:35
Off the wall suggestion re your oil problem. Compare the 2 dipsticks, don't mix them up, and see if they are the same. You might just have the wrong one in this engine which might have marks that mean you overfill it.
The water will rise and fall in the bottle, that's why it's called an expansion bottle. It might bubble/boil in there if the cap doesn't seal properly. Mine did that due to the top of the bottle being distorted. Changed the bottle and cured the problem.
scallyrallyPosted - 05 Feb 2010 : 17:19:40
It was black sludge - a good few mm thick
Ive got know other indicators of head gasket ie white sludge or overheating - just the oil spiting out of dipstick all over the starter motor

I just thought as i got a known good engine it would be easier to transplant then with the engine out i can slowly strip down and find the cause of the oil
UK_SubPosted - 05 Feb 2010 : 16:27:30
White sludge in rocker covers would suggest a cylinder head leak - wouldn't replacing the gasket be worth a try first?


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