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T O P I C    R E V I E W
UK_SubPosted - 05 May 2008 : 20:57:06
I took apart my failing heater unit this weekend, found a spare valve and bolted the whole thing back together (not a 5 minute job!) only to find the spare leaks - badly!

So does anyone have a spare one of these . . .



I only need the valve, not the unit it attaches too, although it would probably be easier.

I hope you can help
15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
WoodyPosted - 06 Aug 2014 : 20:33:43
the small spring clip disintegrated too when I took it off so will need to make one or find an alternative. About the dimensions of a paper clip wire. Some carburrettor kits have similar springs. I know the WW2 Jeep - Carter carburrettor has them.
ianhPosted - 06 Aug 2014 : 16:27:39
Looking good Woody, I had trouble with the over travel clip, it disintegrated so had to try and make one from a piece of sprung stainless steel from a tool clip, seems to be working ok at the moment, only time will tell.
WoodyPosted - 03 Aug 2014 : 13:43:26
Had bought a couple of the repair kits from a Forum member and currently fitting one to the old unit I dismantled before installing the new one acquired off ebay as detailed above. The prongs have been bent two times previously so I am hopeful they will go a third time. More as it develops.

richard.ssPosted - 30 Jul 2014 : 22:34:24
NAPA in the USA sell the rubber seal that rots and leaks. These Ranco valves were used in many US cars of this era as well as volvos, although the pipes have different orientations.
richard.ssPosted - 30 Jul 2014 : 22:31:07
You can buy the rubber seal at NAPA shops in the USA. These valves were used in many US cars of the same era as well as Volvos. They all had different pipes angles however
Kvz2000Posted - 30 Jul 2014 : 22:26:54
Guys,

Can I ask re my valve, it only leaks when valve closed ( cold position) but fine when open(hot position) but heater is so hot it makes cabin far too warm , any ideas

Cheers

Donald
john-saabPosted - 22 Sep 2010 : 09:41:47
(Moved for richard.ss)
quote:
I recently had the collapse of my 1972 V4 heater valve, so I bypassed it and just kept the heater shut off when the weather was hot.
I researched the valve, which is a Ranco valve made in the USA. I found is was original equipment in AMC, Chrysler, Desoto. Fiat, Ford, GM, Hudson, IHC, Packard, Saab, Studebaker and Volvo. Although they seem to use the same valve, the inlet and outlet pipes all seem to be different; one can buy a Volvo one and rotate the pipes.One can take these heater valves apart and replace the rubber seal, then reassemble them. Seals are available from Bob's Auto Supplies, 44 E Main Street, Westboro, Ma 01581, USA. Part No. 660-1000 Ranco Repair Kit. Cost US$10.19 each.
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rsimpsPosted - 22 Sep 2010 : 07:37:25
I remember fitting some model car silicon shock O'rings in mine many years ago.
richard.ssPosted - 22 Sep 2010 : 00:12:43
The rubber seals are available from the USA. Bob's Auto Supply, 44 E Main Street, Westboro, MA 01581, USA 366-4288. Part No. 660-1000 Ranco Repair Kit cost US$10.19. This valve was used on many US cars, Fiat, Volvo and Saab, although the pipes were differently arranged.
They include instructions for the repair.
UK_SubPosted - 21 Sep 2010 : 13:47:24
Great info - thank you!
richard.ssPosted - 21 Sep 2010 : 11:31:40
Replacement rubber seals from Bob' Auto Supply, 44 E Main Street, Westboro, MA 01581, USA at US$ 10.19 each. Part No. 660-1000 Ranco Repair Kit.(Includes instructions) These were used in AMC, Chrysler, DeSoto, Fiat, Ford, GM, Hudson, IHC, Packard, Saab, Studebaker and Volvo!
James RanaldiPosted - 13 Jun 2010 : 21:32:34
Nice one Woody....I just love this stuff.

Cheers

James
WoodyPosted - 13 Jun 2010 : 14:17:34
Oh bliss. As seen below the temperature is at normal, with heater selector to cold and I have cool air at the windscreen.
Need to flush the system as I removed the top hose from thermostat to radiator and found some crystalised crud in there.


WoodyPosted - 12 Jun 2010 : 14:26:24
Having re-assembled the heater valve, I wanted to test the thermostatic valve. The new one responded quite quickly to heat though the original seemed slower. I set up a test rig with the frying pan and suspended the element of the heater valve and bulb units for the Smiths Temp gauge and an old Saab dash gauge,so I could test that the saab gauge worked and also compare the alignment of the temp needles as the temperature rose.
The thermostatic valve started to move at 50 deg and gradually moved more as temp rose. The Saab manual doesn't actually give a range of NORMAL operating temperature so it would appear 90-95 degrees is normal to the old saab gauge.
Now when the new assembly arrived, if the valve was shut/select for cold, there was still minimal flow, ie I could still blow air through though restricted. ( There is the possibility that at higher temperature the rubber seal inside the valve may well expand and force the flow to cease. ) This leads me to believe that the heater is always warm but the temperature compensated by the flow of cool air through the cowling. Thus on a really hot day you will still have a flow of warm air.
It has to be accepted that during the reassembly of the pipes the back plate was marginally warped. This may have a bearing on the alignment of the valve operating arm which can be compensated for by the adjuster screw as follows.
Now this leads me to the adjuster screw on the side of the selector. The new one has the screw sealed with red gel. If wound in the valve can be forced shut. Don't know whether this is advisable. It would be nice to get an information sheet on the function and use of the assembly.







DerekPosted - 11 Jun 2010 : 11:12:26
Yes, that looks familiar. I remember being worried that the tabs would break off after refitting the pipe. Not having a vice handy made things difficult as far as getting something on the back for support when tapping them down. It all worked OK though.

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