|T O P I C R E V I E W|
|x96||Posted - 27 Feb 2012 : 18:21:30|
I want to present myself and the car I bought last summer. It came from finland to south Spain running along 5.000km and arrived a bit tired but I think that with a lot of love can survive another 30 years.(at least)
The previous owner came with another friends in cars very cheap and in bad conditions making the "mediterranean scrapyard run" just to leave them in a demolition house in Spain, take two week holidays and come back to finland by plane.
The car is a '79 v4 saab 96 GL, painted in darker green than the acacia metallic original. My idea is to restore it keeping as much original as I can but with the intention of use it frecuently. At this moment I'm arranging the legal documents (a lot) to obtain the spanish plates.
Mechanically is good but it suffered a bit the late kms of the trevel as the exhaust valves wasn't well adjusted.(no gap on 3 valves)
|15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)|
|melle||Posted - 12 Sep 2017 : 20:56:20|
I'm not saying you should blindly replace parts, just check what you're working with. It never harms to check/ adjust the points gap and moreover, it costs nothing but five minutes of your life! Nothing wrong with points ignition if well maintained and properly tuned.
|x96||Posted - 12 Sep 2017 : 20:38:41|
Yes, I can only agree with you but I would like to see the car running with the points to understand how it works, fuel consumption, acceleration, and so on, then switch to electronic points and compare the difference old days/new days. I only have an small doubt if doing this worths the time.
Points will have around 5.000 kms I suppose. From Finland to south Spain (Andalucia).
If I don't remember badly 10.000 was the mileage they advise to change points on older cars. But of course they can rust because of not working.
I have a longer list to set the engine correctly, spark plugs, wires, valves, timing...
But over all, when I accelerate it hard in the garage, sound like a plane, really exciting, I must admit, it is a love story.
|melle||Posted - 08 Sep 2017 : 21:22:20|
Assumed carburation/ fuelling problems often turn out to be ignition issues I've found. Are you still running points ignition? If so, I would start by checking the points gap. Pattern parts are often of quite poor quality, with the fibre cams on the breaker points assembly wearing down fast. I always try and get proper Bosch stuff.
|x96||Posted - 08 Sep 2017 : 17:41:18|
Thanks for your comments Derek, the cement mixer is a great idea, not simple though. I discover the vinegar recently and I like a lot, clean ecofriendly, powerful and cheap.
Melle, I will make those settings in the carb when I'll finally run the car, with the engine hot enough. It is a good tip.
I planarized the carb time ago and I hope it is still flat enough. Last time I put new gaskets I could set a very low idle without hesitation, meaning the vacuum was perfect. this time was different, it stalled a couple of times maybe for lack of fuel delivery or something else. One year stopped is a lot of time.
I need more trys.
|melle||Posted - 05 Sep 2017 : 19:18:28|
1 1/2 turns should be a good starting point for your Solex (I assume it's a 32TDID, not 32/36 as you wrote?). Then set idle to 850-900 with the throttle stop screw and turn the idle screw in and out until you find the fastest idle. Now readjust idle with the throttle stop screw and you should be good. Before you start, make sure ignition settings are correct.
These carbs are prone to air leaks, which can result in poor idling/ Check the base for straightness and the spindless for play.
|Derek||Posted - 05 Sep 2017 : 10:26:05|
Cleaning out the tank with it out of the car is best. A few handfuls of bolts with square nuts (Dexion shelf type) and a portable cement mixer (hired) with a drum big enough to hold the tank is a method that has been used. Add a couple of gallons of cheap vinegar and seal all the ins and outs. Press button and go and have your dinner. Come out and reverse the tank and maybe the angle of the drum. Go and have your dessert. Check how things are getting and maybe open another bottle of wine before stopping, if the neighbours haven't already complained.
But, best to drain the tank of the old stuff and put in a 10 litres of the best petrol you can find locally, 97 Premium or better if you can get it. In warmer climes most of the stuff that makes things work in petrol will have evaporated away after standing for a few months so fresh is good. The engine does enjoy the good stuff.
|x96||Posted - 05 Sep 2017 : 09:13:22|
After a long while I return to the car and I try to fix the starting problems.
My intention is to move the car and start to use it as second car.
Cleaned the carb and new handmade gaskets fitted. I also removed the new fuel pump thinking that it was clogged with dirty from the tank but blowing through the pipes I noticed that it is clean.
I cleaned the tank from most of the thick dirty but probably something small remained close to the deliver pipe. Difficult to clean it completly without open/cut the tank.
The problem comes from the deliver of fuel from the tank. I blowed through the pipe and I listened bubbles inside de tank.
Then I sucked from it and I could drink a bit of fresh fuel, I prefer beer but, it seems it is the price I have to pay to use the car.
I noticed that the fuel came out with a bit of effort sucking from the pipe, I don’t know if it is normal or the fuel must come out easier with less effort.
The fact is that after doing this I could start the car without flooding the carb with a bottle of fuel and the engine keeps a reasonable idle.
I also added another fuel filter directly after the tank under the rear seat.
It stalled a couple of times but this is maybe related to the carb itself and its settings.
I red in another post that an starting point to adjust the idle is to screw the idle needle completely and then unscrew it 1.5 turns.
Is that correct for this solex 32/36TDID?
I have a little experience in the past with weber and pieburg and maybe the best is to adjust the needle after doing a few kilometers by test and error procedure.
I also have to say that the last time I started the engine was one year ago. This, surely doesn’ t help.
|x96||Posted - 20 Apr 2017 : 19:58:01|
I know, I know, but I've never seen a clock with oranges hands. They seems quite rare.
I would buy it.
I check often tradera or ebay but they come only in white.
I thought to open it and paint the handles but I would have to match the color closely to avoid a blunder and on the other hand it is not sure that it can be open without breaking it.
P.D. I hope to meet you in Dinslaken, but I'll go with my daily car C900 Dustin. It would be so nice to go with the 96. Let's see if I can put it on the road this summer
|72sonett3||Posted - 20 Apr 2017 : 09:52:33|
Your 96 is a '78- and all the gauges have orange hands. There is also a clock with orange hands that match the rest of the gauges. Your clock is for an older model 95/96.
'77 96L conv.
'79 96GL (LPG)
'83 900i (LPG)
'95 900SE conv.
|x96||Posted - 22 Aug 2016 : 21:14:51|
Thanks for your offer, I really appreciate it. I don't discard to need it in the future.
The heater box is a big thing and close to the eyes when the bonnet is open, I would like to restore it but is necessary time for removing and painting, as I see on your projects takes a while. I have to change also the valve, stucked in closed position.
I've been busy with the carburattor and fuel delivery. I made new gaskets as I've opened so many times the carb, that I've destroyed the card gaskets.
The old plastic gaskets are in apparent good condition but they don't keep the vacumm.
I found an orange powder on the bottom of the float chamber, probably rest of rust from the tank. the filter is not capable to filter everything.
I cleaned the tank as best I could without opening(cutting the steel) but I'm not sure if the tubes are a bit clogged, when I suck from the tube I notice some resistance, in any case if I blow, I hear bubbles in the tank. Maybe it's normal.
|Yetanother96||Posted - 21 Aug 2016 : 18:34:13|
That's a job well done Hector, I'm impressed. After being bullied by other Saab 96V4 enthusiasts on this site about the state of my heater box, I must also insist that you spray your heater box too! See my latest update. If you encounter any problems with suppliers not wishing to post to France or Spain, then please contact me and we can arrange something. I could receive parts and then post them on to you.
|x96||Posted - 21 Aug 2016 : 17:56:06|
I made also the front part from 3d printer, that part that keeps the spring and the rod.
Also with different sizes to see which one fits better, they are small so they are cheap to print
|x96||Posted - 21 Aug 2016 : 17:48:35|
I finished with the link for the carburator. I was very lucky and I found a grommet that fits in the hole of the heater box. I couldn't buy the grommets that are similar to the original as the UK seller doesn't ship to Spain or France.
I don't know where does it come from as I found it on the street.
I made a hole on the back
It fits perfectly but I made the inner part from 3d printer as the white original ring doesn't fit inside.
I tried different sizes:
Please, don't look at the heater box, I know, it's terrible, but, first the car must run.
|x96||Posted - 14 Apr 2016 : 21:11:16|
It needs also a good polishing though.
After seing the John-Saab job with the handle, it seems there's no limits for recovering old parts.
|James Ranaldi||Posted - 13 Apr 2016 : 10:29:12|
Excellent work Hector . . . . . . .
1968 V4, LHD
1984 99 GL
1992 900i Convertible