|T O P I C R E V I E W|
|x96||Posted - 27 Feb 2012 : 18:21:30|
I want to present myself and the car I bought last summer. It came from finland to south Spain running along 5.000km and arrived a bit tired but I think that with a lot of love can survive another 30 years.(at least)
The previous owner came with another friends in cars very cheap and in bad conditions making the "mediterranean scrapyard run" just to leave them in a demolition house in Spain, take two week holidays and come back to finland by plane.
The car is a '79 v4 saab 96 GL, painted in darker green than the acacia metallic original. My idea is to restore it keeping as much original as I can but with the intention of use it frecuently. At this moment I'm arranging the legal documents (a lot) to obtain the spanish plates.
Mechanically is good but it suffered a bit the late kms of the trevel as the exhaust valves wasn't well adjusted.(no gap on 3 valves)
|15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)|
|x96||Posted - 27 May 2018 : 18:02:19|
The circuit for the warning light was corroded at the end. I added solder wire
and an additional wire to improve the earth contact.
The rust was removed with sand paper and converted with rust converter.
|x96||Posted - 27 May 2018 : 17:56:05|
|x96||Posted - 27 May 2018 : 17:52:48|
And to restore the fuel sender.
It looks very rusted but the steel is strength enough to continue working.
|x96||Posted - 27 May 2018 : 17:49:31|
Time to repair the driver lock. The barrel twisted freely, it was enough to add a plastic washer
|x96||Posted - 21 Apr 2018 : 19:15:41|
And the badges properly painted with the sides in black.
|x96||Posted - 21 Apr 2018 : 19:00:39|
Now in orange fits better
|x96||Posted - 20 Apr 2018 : 16:11:48|
Melle, what happen in fact is that I removed the spring and notice that while driving the lever moves forward by itself. I don’t know if because of the normal vibration of the engine or because of something inside the gearbox.
|melle||Posted - 19 Apr 2018 : 20:07:16|
I never use the freewheel and have blocked the lever with a suitable length of pipe with a big washer at each end around the rod; looks like your spring was meant to do the same. Taking the spring off the lever should improve the situation if you do want to use the freewheel. The spring now just pushes the lever out and disengages the freewheel.
|x96||Posted - 19 Apr 2018 : 19:32:38|
Last time I drove the car I understood why that spring was there. While driving with the freewheel on, after a while, the lever moves and goes to freewheel off, locking the device.
Do I have to think there’s something bad inside the gearbox/freewheel or it is just a weak spring on the plastic lever?
|x96||Posted - 22 Jan 2018 : 21:08:01|
I must admit this car gives me a lot of fun. It's enough simple and without electronics. Easy to handle with. Of course I follow your thread but forget the things quickly
Have you tried to put a thin rubber gasket(1mm or so) between the two parts on a solex? I thought it could be a solution.
If it is not useful I will remove the PVS valve, and focus on the rest of the system.
It was warm when I drove the car, around 15 celsius degrees and the engine didn't heat too much and the pointer gauge kept under the middle position on the scale but things can change on summer running on highway.
I will check also the caps, I think it doesn't keep too much pressure on the system.
|melle||Posted - 21 Jan 2018 : 15:11:09|
Good to see you're still enjoying it, onwards and upwards!
I've put up with Solex TDIDs for more than a decade, and if they work they're really not a bad carb. Fact is that most are completely worn out (mostly warpage and worn spindles/ bores); you won't regret a Weber, also because of their supreme tunability (downside is you can no longer blame the carb if the engine runs like a pig!).
I currently have a Weber 28/36 DCD on the 96 with a modified Solex filter housing, something similar will no doubt work with a 32/36 DG(A/E)V, see my project thread: http://www.saab-v4.co.uk/speedball/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=31068&whichpage=1 Scroll through the thread for conversion photos. Crankcase ventilation system is standard with an added oil catch can before the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve.
Both types of Weber have a port for the vacuum advance, you should have no issues there. If you still have the PVS valve (positive vacuum supply, the black device in the coolant hose with the three vacuum lines), I would ditch it. The PVS system is meant to retard the ignition timing a degree or so at >104 degrees C coolant temperature to get the engine to run a bit colder. I've never noticed any difference without the valve, even when sitting in heavy traffic for prolonged periods of time (perhaps because the ones I used to have fitted weren't working anyway!).
|x96||Posted - 21 Jan 2018 : 12:41:30|
Next step will be to fit a weber 32/36 as many of you recommend
My doub is how to deal with vacuum to the dizzy, and the air recirculation from the rocker cover. And also the air filter cover, it would be nice to be able to keep the typical big black box.
|x96||Posted - 19 Jan 2018 : 19:26:31|
So, the solution for the trip was the truck
The car is without heating, even so I planned the trip on winter, the south can be very hot on a SAAb without air conditioning.
|x96||Posted - 19 Jan 2018 : 19:12:10|
I openend the carb at least 20 times, adjusting the float, screwed the bottom part harder and cancelling the booster but the problem remains so it is warped for sure.
|x96||Posted - 19 Jan 2018 : 19:07:06|
I was lucky as it stopped always on places where I could park manually pushing the car