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T O P I C    R E V I E W
WoodyPosted - 10 Aug 2008 : 23:56:45
Today in the sunshine, finally installed my standard engine into the "Troll".
The competition engine is waiting in the wings pending acquisition of certain components but in the mean time I needed to install the standard engine to get it running and then through a MOT so I could later install the comp. engine without some numpty over-reving it whilst it's being tested (happened in the past). You will notice the use of my daughters' old swing frame as a support for the engine sylvester, I have installed an engine and gearbox before with it but the weight bent the frame. I reshaped it but the engine still bent it a bit. Needs some re-inforcing for future use.
see my photobucket in my member link but in the meantine I have shown some pics for your enjoyment:--

15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
WoodyPosted - 20 Jul 2011 : 19:58:42
Continued in Projects:-
WoodyPosted - 06 Jun 2010 : 12:13:10
Dug the carb+ tube out of garage, (now it has stopped raining!!)
john wyattPosted - 06 Jun 2010 : 11:46:31
cannot wait to hear if you have one John!, I am certain I have one somewhere but cannot lay my hands on it
john-saabPosted - 06 Jun 2010 : 08:17:59
I'm sure i have one of those in my spares pile...i will have a look later today!
john wyattPosted - 05 Jun 2010 : 23:20:44
You never cease to amaze me!, I recognise that part but having raked through my old carbs today cannot find one, will make one up to move things on if I can't find something tomorrow, your drawing will be very helpful for this
WoodyPosted - 05 Jun 2010 : 19:53:55
A similar type of lever but of smaller dimensions was used on downdraft carbs like 28/36 per Weber diagrams. Pics for identification. Material is steel - plated. Please excuse my crude drawing but hope it helps;-

john wyattPosted - 05 Jun 2010 : 15:47:54
any ideas where I might get the c shaped lever part 5 (12484) looks very familiar but cannot think where I recognise these from?
rsimpsPosted - 04 Jun 2010 : 08:02:26
Mine is set up to pull vacuum off one inlet into a vacuum tank, with the one way valve between the two. I use open circuit breathing, where Saab used a closed system. My theory is you dont want any oil mixed in with your incomming fuel, but you must increase the size of the breather pipes on each rocker cover.

If you look at the Saab expansion tank it is placed high on the wing and the rad take off it right at the top of the rad. If you get any air in the system it will move to the highest point, in this case the tank on the wing. I found if the cooling becomes close to boiling air will form in the radiator top hose and reduce flow to the rad. I take a blead off the top of the rad hose to the top of an expansion bottle. This system self bleads and I have no blead valves on my engine. Just fill the rad to the top, fill the expansion tank half full, run the engine and it will self blead. You may want to keep the blead on the heater if you run one, as that is higher than the rad top hose. I would also check any expansion bottle/rad cap that it holds pressure, most of the std ones I tested did not.
WoodyPosted - 03 Jun 2010 : 23:29:39
Yes I had to make all my studs, the four required for the base and the eight for securing the carbs to the tubes and the eight to secure the tubes to the base. Also fabricated the retainer for the fuel line. You can buy the rod from B&Q now which makes life easier. They also have the 5mm rod for making the operating rods for the pedal to operating lever and between the carbs. I bought the LH thread die years ago so I could make up the long rod and a bag of 100 LH nuts.
When I bought the lever kit from Saab in 1973, the long rod was RH thread both ends so was cut to make the bent rod for the C/T manifold. The ball seats were correct though - 3x RH & 1xLH.

john wyattPosted - 03 Jun 2010 : 23:06:48
Quite right woody, the rocker vent tubes will need to be cut off, also have to make up a few studs as you cannot get bolts in to secure the manifold, I had not appreciated how close the carbs and inlets are to the rocker covers, have rest of engine bay pretty much together in anticipation of having exhaust fabricated next week, I have booked the car in to meerkat exhausts in ayrshire, will post picture of results, they come recommended and quote did not seem too dear.
DerekPosted - 02 Jun 2010 : 11:52:46
I think "the interesting heater valve" is the T piece referred to which mates the tank into the system. The expansion oveflow comes from the rad the tank the same as with the original bottle. This is shown in the lower, modified, drawing.
I've just read that the V4 block is hard to bleed due to air bubbles collecting around #4 cylinder. Don't know how true that is, as I've never seen that comment before.
WoodyPosted - 02 Jun 2010 : 00:40:45
Thanks Derek, an interesting article. I note what he says about removing the filler off the radiator, and the interesting heater valve? positioned in front of the heater housing.
DerekPosted - 02 Jun 2010 : 00:05:37
You might find these comments about the cooling system interesting. The Volvo 240 "tank" looks as if it would work well.
WoodyPosted - 01 Jun 2010 : 22:49:24

WoodyPosted - 01 Jun 2010 : 21:33:10
IIRC you cannot put standard rocker covers with the cross-over manifold. The standard pipes need to be removed and sealed. They foul the inlet tubes if you try to remove the covers for valve clearance checks.
I was "lucky"? enough to buy the gauze filled breathers (3) back in 1973 to use some with the C/T set. Two are used on each cover to vent to the barrel filters. The third is placed on the cover for 3&4 so it vents to one of the nipples on the manifold. If you look at your manifold you will find that the back two intake ports have a drilled hole between the castings so that breathing isn't just to one cylinder, so when piston two is on down stroke it also draws air in via the vent.
The second threaded port is for the servo pipe. Richard can confirm but saab tended to use the lower threaded hole for the breather from the rocker cover and the upper one for the brake servo. The question is how big are the holes under the nipples. Mine are not drilled yet. I have offered the PC valve (per my photo below)to check the thread gauge, which is tight. Haven't wanted to force it. If I use these the inner valves will be removed. Never ordered the SS&R nipples so am assuming both are hollow tubes.
I have noticed in other installations that folk have taken breather pipes from the rocker covers to catch tanks or to the air cleaner barrel higher up so access is better rather than scratching about under the carbs. I shall get a close up photo of the breather later when I go in the garage. You also need to file the transmission cover back plate under the thermostat portion of the manifold so it will seat properly.

Another point to check, I am wondering how efficient the standard temp gauge sensor is as it doesn't sit in the flow of water. Another pic later...

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