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|T O P I C R E V I E W|
|x96||Posted - 27 Feb 2012 : 18:21:30|
I want to present myself and the car I bought last summer. It came from finland to south Spain running along 5.000km and arrived a bit tired but I think that with a lot of love can survive another 30 years.(at least)
The previous owner came with another friends in cars very cheap and in bad conditions making the "mediterranean scrapyard run" just to leave them in a demolition house in Spain, take two week holidays and come back to finland by plane.
The car is a '79 v4 saab 96 GL, painted in darker green than the acacia metallic original. My idea is to restore it keeping as much original as I can but with the intention of use it frecuently. At this moment I'm arranging the legal documents (a lot) to obtain the spanish plates.
Mechanically is good but it suffered a bit the late kms of the trevel as the exhaust valves wasn't well adjusted.(no gap on 3 valves)
|15 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First)|
|melle||Posted - 19 Apr 2018 : 20:07:16|
I never use the freewheel and have blocked the lever with a suitable length of pipe with a big washer at each end around the rod; looks like your spring was meant to do the same. Taking the spring off the lever should improve the situation if you do want to use the freewheel. The spring now just pushes the lever out and disengages the freewheel.
|x96||Posted - 19 Apr 2018 : 19:32:38|
Last time I drove the car I understood why that spring was there. While driving with the freewheel on, after a while, the lever moves and goes to freewheel off, locking the device.
Do I have to think there’s something bad inside the gearbox/freewheel or it is just a weak spring on the plastic lever?
|x96||Posted - 22 Jan 2018 : 21:08:01|
I must admit this car gives me a lot of fun. It's enough simple and without electronics. Easy to handle with. Of course I follow your thread but forget the things quickly
Have you tried to put a thin rubber gasket(1mm or so) between the two parts on a solex? I thought it could be a solution.
If it is not useful I will remove the PVS valve, and focus on the rest of the system.
It was warm when I drove the car, around 15 celsius degrees and the engine didn't heat too much and the pointer gauge kept under the middle position on the scale but things can change on summer running on highway.
I will check also the caps, I think it doesn't keep too much pressure on the system.
|melle||Posted - 21 Jan 2018 : 15:11:09|
Good to see you're still enjoying it, onwards and upwards!
I've put up with Solex TDIDs for more than a decade, and if they work they're really not a bad carb. Fact is that most are completely worn out (mostly warpage and worn spindles/ bores); you won't regret a Weber, also because of their supreme tunability (downside is you can no longer blame the carb if the engine runs like a pig!).
I currently have a Weber 28/36 DCD on the 96 with a modified Solex filter housing, something similar will no doubt work with a 32/36 DG(A/E)V, see my project thread: http://www.saab-v4.co.uk/speedball/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=31068&whichpage=1 Scroll through the thread for conversion photos. Crankcase ventilation system is standard with an added oil catch can before the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve.
Both types of Weber have a port for the vacuum advance, you should have no issues there. If you still have the PVS valve (positive vacuum supply, the black device in the coolant hose with the three vacuum lines), I would ditch it. The PVS system is meant to retard the ignition timing a degree or so at >104 degrees C coolant temperature to get the engine to run a bit colder. I've never noticed any difference without the valve, even when sitting in heavy traffic for prolonged periods of time (perhaps because the ones I used to have fitted weren't working anyway!).
|x96||Posted - 21 Jan 2018 : 12:41:30|
Next step will be to fit a weber 32/36 as many of you recommend
My doub is how to deal with vacuum to the dizzy, and the air recirculation from the rocker cover. And also the air filter cover, it would be nice to be able to keep the typical big black box.
|x96||Posted - 19 Jan 2018 : 19:26:31|
So, the solution for the trip was the truck
The car is without heating, even so I planned the trip on winter, the south can be very hot on a SAAb without air conditioning.
|x96||Posted - 19 Jan 2018 : 19:12:10|
I openend the carb at least 20 times, adjusting the float, screwed the bottom part harder and cancelling the booster but the problem remains so it is warped for sure.
|x96||Posted - 19 Jan 2018 : 19:07:06|
I was lucky as it stopped always on places where I could park manually pushing the car
|x96||Posted - 19 Jan 2018 : 19:03:10|
well, a bit of time later I took a plane and tried to drive the car to the north, 1.000kms but she said she was happier in the south, with better temperatures and drier weather, I don't blame her, I think the same.
The engine started not bad after resting 6 months but suddenly came the problems, the carb floods again the engine, I think it will be again warped, so at start when it needs a lot of petrol works well with a very fast idle but when gets driving temperature there's too much petrol, floods and stalls. I can see the petrol going into the engine like a fountain.
I was able to make an small trip but coming back was a pain, the only way is to wait 20 minutes until the engine cools a bit and the petrol evaporates and then I have another 10 minutes to drive until floods again.
the village and country side is very nice but improves dramatically with the 96 on it.
|melle||Posted - 12 Sep 2017 : 20:56:20|
I'm not saying you should blindly replace parts, just check what you're working with. It never harms to check/ adjust the points gap and moreover, it costs nothing but five minutes of your life! Nothing wrong with points ignition if well maintained and properly tuned.
|x96||Posted - 12 Sep 2017 : 20:38:41|
Yes, I can only agree with you but I would like to see the car running with the points to understand how it works, fuel consumption, acceleration, and so on, then switch to electronic points and compare the difference old days/new days. I only have an small doubt if doing this worths the time.
Points will have around 5.000 kms I suppose. From Finland to south Spain (Andalucia).
If I don't remember badly 10.000 was the mileage they advise to change points on older cars. But of course they can rust because of not working.
I have a longer list to set the engine correctly, spark plugs, wires, valves, timing...
But over all, when I accelerate it hard in the garage, sound like a plane, really exciting, I must admit, it is a love story.
|melle||Posted - 08 Sep 2017 : 21:22:20|
Assumed carburation/ fuelling problems often turn out to be ignition issues I've found. Are you still running points ignition? If so, I would start by checking the points gap. Pattern parts are often of quite poor quality, with the fibre cams on the breaker points assembly wearing down fast. I always try and get proper Bosch stuff.
|x96||Posted - 08 Sep 2017 : 17:41:18|
Thanks for your comments Derek, the cement mixer is a great idea, not simple though. I discover the vinegar recently and I like a lot, clean ecofriendly, powerful and cheap.
Melle, I will make those settings in the carb when I'll finally run the car, with the engine hot enough. It is a good tip.
I planarized the carb time ago and I hope it is still flat enough. Last time I put new gaskets I could set a very low idle without hesitation, meaning the vacuum was perfect. this time was different, it stalled a couple of times maybe for lack of fuel delivery or something else. One year stopped is a lot of time.
I need more trys.
|melle||Posted - 05 Sep 2017 : 19:18:28|
1 1/2 turns should be a good starting point for your Solex (I assume it's a 32TDID, not 32/36 as you wrote?). Then set idle to 850-900 with the throttle stop screw and turn the idle screw in and out until you find the fastest idle. Now readjust idle with the throttle stop screw and you should be good. Before you start, make sure ignition settings are correct.
These carbs are prone to air leaks, which can result in poor idling/ Check the base for straightness and the spindless for play.
|Derek||Posted - 05 Sep 2017 : 10:26:05|
Cleaning out the tank with it out of the car is best. A few handfuls of bolts with square nuts (Dexion shelf type) and a portable cement mixer (hired) with a drum big enough to hold the tank is a method that has been used. Add a couple of gallons of cheap vinegar and seal all the ins and outs. Press button and go and have your dinner. Come out and reverse the tank and maybe the angle of the drum. Go and have your dessert. Check how things are getting and maybe open another bottle of wine before stopping, if the neighbours haven't already complained.
But, best to drain the tank of the old stuff and put in a 10 litres of the best petrol you can find locally, 97 Premium or better if you can get it. In warmer climes most of the stuff that makes things work in petrol will have evaporated away after standing for a few months so fresh is good. The engine does enjoy the good stuff.