SAAB V4 Forum
SAAB V4 Forum
Home | Profile | Register | Active Topics | Members | Search | FAQ
 All Forums
 Technical
 General Technical
 Poor contacts on fuses

Note: You must be registered in order to post a reply.
To register, click here. Registration is FREE!

Screensize:
UserName:
Password:
Format Mode:
Format:BoldItalicizedUnderlineStrikethrough Align LeftCenteredAlign Right Horizontal Rule Insert HyperlinkInsert EmailInsert Image Insert CodeInsert QuoteInsert List
  
Message:

* HTML is OFF
* Forum Code is ON
Smilies
Smile [:)]Big Smile [:D]Cool [8D]Blush [:I]
Tongue [:P]Evil [):]Wink [;)]Clown [:o)]
Black Eye [B)]Eight Ball [8]Frown [:(]Shy [8)]
Shocked [:0]Angry [:(!]Dead [xx(]Sleepy [|)]
Kisses [:X]Approve [^]Disapprove [V]Question [?]

 
Check here to subscribe to this topic.
  

T O P I C    R E V I E W
EdinburghJoePosted - 20 Mar 2017 : 13:35:58
Hi all,
I've been having repeated trouble with the fuses on my 96, which has the original fusebox with the torpedo shaped fuses. They don't make reliable electrical contact with their holders, and so I keep finding that various items of equipment stop working (lights/ indicators / instruments / wipers / horn etc). All I need to do is spin the offending fuse a couple of times and it's then fine... until the next time.
To try to get a better fix I removed all the fuses and gently sanded their ends, plus the contacts, and then squeezed the contacts together slightly so they grip the fuses more tightly, but the sporadic problem persists.

My next idea is to gently 'drill' into the small locating holes on the fusebox contacts using a fairly large drill bit, just enough to shine up the edge of each hole, hopefully giving them a slight recess which should increase the surface area to make contact with the end cap of the fuse.

I'm guessing I'm not the only person to have this problem - and does anyone have any good suggestions as to how to fix it, or is what I've suggested above a good bet?

I'm hoping to avoid replacing the whole fusebox, but if that's the only way...

Joe
15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
andydeans3Posted - 10 Apr 2017 : 14:46:30
Fuses ratings are mostly 8 amp, though I have a 16 amp fuse in position 1, because my car has a heated rear screen.
Andy

1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
RhysNPosted - 10 Apr 2017 : 07:16:51
Yet another dumb question from the newbie! What fuses should one have in hand? (ratings?)

Then again I believe the only dumb question is the one yu didn't ask :)
DerekPosted - 02 Apr 2017 : 21:10:36
The answer is maybe. You do need confirmation that they are actually real ceramic and not plastic. Picture is inconclusive. Many sellers call them ceramic as if it was a generic term for the type rather than the correct description of what they are made from. Ceramic bodied continental fuses would be better a better description, but I bet most of them would still be sold with plastic bodies.
gorselandsPosted - 02 Apr 2017 : 14:35:15
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/261783315603?chn=ps&adgroupid=40208487538&rlsatarget=pla-470339038032&abcId=923846&adtype=pla&merchantid=101450820&poi=&googleloc=9046553&device=c&campaignid=738085096&crdt=0

These fuses any good?
DirtbikerPosted - 30 Mar 2017 : 19:06:54
There's a letter in the tech questions section of Practical Classics this month on this subject.

I'll take a photo and post it if that's acceptable from PCs point of view - I'm sure it is now they have a V4 on the fleet!
EdinburghJoePosted - 29 Mar 2017 : 13:32:30
Thanks for all the suggestions.

In the end I used a drill with a countersink bit, set to run counter-clockwise to prevent it 'biting'. I gently drilled into the bottom set of contacts (made of thicker metal) and made a small shiny cone-shaped indentation in each.

The upper contacts were much thinner metal, and at the wrong angle to get the drill in, so I gave up on that idea. They all had a cone-shaped indentation already, so I just shined them up a bit with sandpaper.

Then gave all the upper contacts a bend to increase tension on the fuses, a squirt of contact cleaner top and bottom, and finally put in all new fuses (probably plastic bodies, given that they cost about a quid or so for ten).

It seems to work. So far. I'll put some Vaseline on all the contacts when I'm next under the bonnet (not likely to be long...)
UK_SubPosted - 24 Mar 2017 : 12:26:20
Heard back from the green spark plug co. and those Durite fuses are plastic and not ceramic - the hunt goes on...
ZagatoPosted - 23 Mar 2017 : 15:12:13
Thanks Wally, interesting . Hoping you are going to Swedish Day in that old rust heap of yours, I've got my hammer packed and my expert knowledge in case it is still not running right . Er or rather note book and pen to take copious notes


velo200Posted - 23 Mar 2017 : 15:08:35
Urgent update on previous post.
Just spoken to sheridan marine and they have no stock of 8 amp at the moment, and their supplier has stopped stocking them. they hope to be able to supply again in a few months, will keep you posted.
velo200Posted - 23 Mar 2017 : 14:42:25
Try these
http://www.sheridanmarine.com/product/ceramic-fuses
DerekPosted - 23 Mar 2017 : 13:49:08
The ones I have are packaged as Durite. The shrinking plastic ones cause problems on the Volvo 240 where they look after the fuel pump. They can get pretty hot. That is what started my serch when I realised the ones I had were made from plastic.
Try here. The company has a stand at many car shows and exhibitions.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Durite-Fuse-Continental-White-8-amp-Bx50-0-230-58-/361099418822?hash=item541333dcc6:g:-l4AAOxyM89ScScX
£10.08 for 50 with free post is cheap enough I think and should last a lifetime! Packs of 10 also available but much more expensive pro rata. You can always ask if they are proper ceramic ones.
You can recycle the ceramic part and use the metal fuse part from a plastic one. A bit fiddly, but easy to do.
ZagatoPosted - 23 Mar 2017 : 10:15:44
Googling brings loads of suppliers up. Wether they are actually ceramic or described as ceramic style I don,t know.

My EBay link imploded the thread so I have deleted it but you should find some Simon. I need some also so will dig around now for some!


UK_SubPosted - 23 Mar 2017 : 09:13:46
Where do you get the ceramic fuses from?
DerekPosted - 22 Mar 2017 : 23:12:30
Bottom line really is that there isn't much wrong with the original fuse box. Like all fuse boxes and fuses they just need a little servicing now and then. Keep all the contacts clean and bright. Set the holders to give good contact pressure. Use a smear of Vaseline or zinc anti corrosive paste on the fuse ends. New fuses now and then every few years won't break the bank. Be sure you get proper ceramic fuses and not the plastic look alikes. Plastic ones shrink under tension when they get warm, reducing the contact pressure, which makes the contact less reliable. Be thankful that pretty well everything has its own fuse. That makes trouble shooting easier. Keep some spares in your glove box then you won't need them.
Yes I'm just giving a +1 to Joe's original post but I don't think you need to drill out the holes at all.
mellePosted - 22 Mar 2017 : 12:59:34
I think I'll try and mount a C900 fuse box under the glove box (my 96 is LHD) or in the plastic storage bin at some point. The advantage over a generic blade type fuse box is that it'll also house all relays (my 96 has a couple aux relays). I may do a complete rewire as well, the loom isn't getting better after nearly half a century.

www.saabv4.com

Snitz Forums 2000
SAAB V4 Forum© 2000-04 Snitz CommunicationsGo To Top Of Page