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T O P I C    R E V I E W
DynorogPosted - 11 Apr 2017 : 11:02:38
I have inadvertently started a project - “Project Dilemma”
I purchased WMJ 140K in 2011 with 79K on the clock and a fair bit of provenance and she was “rebuilt” in 1986 with quite a few receipts to back this up.
My intention was just to slowly improve her and in parallel I purchased a cheap engine with the intention of when I retired, building a 1700 upgraded engine over a period of time, probably years.
I drove her infrequently to the odd local show and a few other trips when the weather was good.
Eventually I bought some silicone hoses and a water pump but never got around to getting the jobs done due to work pressures etc.
Through lack of use gaskets and seal dried out and various oil leaks developed so I thought I would get stuck in and take the engine out and sort the sump gasket hoses etc. at the same time – this is what I found:-

So Suprise Suprise ! things are going further than I expected.
More to follow with questions I need to ask.

15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
DynorogPosted - 04 Mar 2018 : 18:00:11
Thanks for the complement Rhys.

Can,t get much welding done at the moment so I'm back in the garage and trying to sort out the mechanicals.

Acquired a pair of rebuilt heads but when I was cleaning the faces up came across this.

Each Head has the word FEILD stamped on it together with a number
17 91 7 and 17 91 8
Anybody come across this? an engine builder vanadle or dyslexic farmer? Then again my spelllings not too hot.Or am I showing my ignorance of a other languages?

Anyway, new Balance shaft and cam shaft bushes renewed,cam,balance and crank shafts back in. Timing gears on.

Feel like I'm going in the right direction now.It's about the only thing I can feel after spending two days in that garage!
Got to get back on the road this summer.


RhysNPosted - 15 Nov 2017 : 17:18:27
I had a very pleasant afternoon visiting Roger and his project. It's almost enough to frighten you (me) off when I see how much he has had to do on a car which obviously seemed pristine in the first place. He is a real enthusiast, and a thoroughly "good bloke , or good bugger". (High praise in the Antipodes)
DynorogPosted - 09 Sep 2017 : 19:02:11
OK, thanks Martin

72sonett3Posted - 09 Sep 2017 : 16:50:20
The overlap will be a source for corrosion, specially in that area.
I prefer butt welds, even if it may be a bit more difficult to do, but after some trials you will get the voltage and current settings right.

'72 97
'77 96L conv.
'79 96GL (LPG)
'83 900i (LPG)
'95 900SE conv.
'99 9-3T
DynorogPosted - 08 Sep 2017 : 18:45:09
Thanks for the tips Martin.
Why did you go for a butt weld instead of the lap?

deggsiePosted - 07 Sep 2017 : 18:32:35
Originally posted by Dynorog
Burdizzo - I think my wife will use it as one if I spend any more time working on the car!

Not a term I was familiar with, so had to look it up ! A tool for nuts of a different kind, I see (although there is also an Italian wine of the same name)!

Saab - beyond the conventional !
DynorogPosted - 07 Sep 2017 : 18:26:29

I think my wife will use it as one if I spend any more time working on the car!

72sonett3Posted - 07 Sep 2017 : 17:00:44
Originally posted by Dynorog
I'll get hold of some 1.5 mm plate as martin suggested and fab up a new plate.

I had to repair this exact same spot in both my '77 96 and '98 95.

First I cut out the rotten sections like you did and cleaned the edges to bare metal.
Then I traced the size and shape of the hole on a piece of cereal box card board and used that as a template to cut the shape out of a flat metal sheet, and bent it to the shape of the hole in the body.
Then first tack welded it in place followed by continuous butt welds (= without overlap) all around, not all in the same spot but spaced about 10 cm around the edge to avoid build up of heat.
Then some cosmetic grinding and shaping of welds where needed, then primer and finally under body coating.

Remove the carpets and rubber cover of the wheel well in the interior before you start welding... !

'72 97
'77 96L conv.
'79 96GL (LPG)
'83 900i (LPG)
'95 900SE conv.
'99 9-3T
DerekPosted - 07 Sep 2017 : 11:04:10
mellePosted - 06 Sep 2017 : 19:51:13
It certainly does, I'm a sucker for precision engineering!
DynorogPosted - 06 Sep 2017 : 18:15:59
[quote]Originally posted by melle
Love your bump stop removal tool!
Well I thought it's resemblance to a delicate scientific instrument would appeal[:)

mellePosted - 05 Sep 2017 : 19:08:09
Love your bump stop removal tool!
DynorogPosted - 04 Sep 2017 : 16:20:12
Well I finally got the front spring off, to give decent access for welding and a proper inspection.

Front os spring removed.

It has taken me ages. First of all I couldn't undo the bump stop it was rock solid. I tried to get pump pliers in after grinding them down a little but couldn't get enough grip to to budge it.I eventually resorted to knocking up a tool to get at it- I warn you it's not pretty but it did work.

Bump Stop tool

It comprises of a 42mm 'U'clamp with extended threads with flattened 19mm conduit as spacers to clear the spring perimeter to enable the nuts to be tightened.I took the jaws of the pump pliers which by this time I had broken!, ground them down to fit and welded them onto each side of the exhaust clamp. Welded on a length of conduit for the handle and to my surprise it worked.
I ll put the photo on the tools thread.

I did try to get at the lower stops but without the engine/gearbox in the whole car was lifting off the 4 axle stands.I did think of asking my wife to sit in the engine bay to keep it down but she isn't fat enough -yet.(she doesn't read this thread... I hope!)

Although I have never had trouble in removing springs in the past, the things I have seen written about removing these Saab springs made me a little nervous, so I bought an hydraulic compressor
- which didn't fit because it didn't have enough adjustment to fit the spring( would not go short enough.)so I had the thread lengthened to suite. I didn't ask for it to be cut shorter though! but that's another story.
It still didn't fit! Although the clamps fit, the spring was so distorted I couldn't get them into the spring when connected to the hydraulic ram. I couldn't square it up as I said previously the whole car was lifting.
In the end I ground down some spring clamps a little to give them a better fit and it came out no trouble.

DynorogPosted - 20 Aug 2017 : 10:10:45
Originally posted by Betsy67

Sorry, use my phone most of the time so pasting a link is beyond my capabilities !

Using anything to do that is beyond mine!

Betsy67Posted - 20 Aug 2017 : 07:07:34
Beth's new seats and other things etc.
Sorry, use my phone most of the time so pasting a link is beyond my capabilities !

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