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T O P I C    R E V I E W
greg124Posted - 10 Nov 2017 : 21:30:04
My 96 has the usual holes above the front indicator/sidelight unit, and it appears this is approximately where one corner of the aluminium bracket that retains said unit sits. Considering the bracket also has white powdery deposits,add the presence of water and a small electric current, and this looks like differential corrosion.
Has anyone come up with a good solution for this? Before I attempt to re-invent the wheel
15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
James RanaldiPosted - 27 Nov 2017 : 18:27:09
Impressive

1968 V4, LHD
1984 99 GL
1992 C900i Convertible
1993 C900 LPT Convertible
green96v4Posted - 27 Nov 2017 : 12:49:10
Adobe Illustrator (I'm a Graphic Designer, so I use ai everyday)

I have a poster-sized version of it on my garage wall
greg124Posted - 25 Nov 2017 : 18:05:44
Great job green96v4. What CAD package did you use?
green96v4Posted - 24 Nov 2017 : 16:10:18
That's why I recreated in colour, got tired of looking at the Haynes manual version in glorious monotone! (usually through a magnifying glass!)

quote:
Originally posted by greg124
Very useful. Thank you gentlemen.
I have printed out the top one, as it is much easier to read than the post-card sized diagram in the Haynes.
Just one question - should there be a second wire to the clock for illumination, or is it not illuminated?

72sonett3Posted - 23 Nov 2017 : 17:40:00
The Saab clock has a lamp opening on the side, connect it parallel to the dash lighting (with a green wire) through the existing rheostat (if that still works...).
The clock is pre wired (blue wire).

--
'72 97
'77 96L conv.
'79 96GL (LPG)
'83 900i (LPG)
'95 900SE conv.
'99 9-3T
greg124Posted - 23 Nov 2017 : 12:25:14
Very useful. Thank you gentlemen.
I have printed out the top one, as it is much easier to read than the post-card sized diagram in the Haynes.
Just one question - should there be a second wire to the clock for illumination, or is it not illuminated?
72sonett3Posted - 22 Nov 2017 : 10:44:13
Here's another:


--
'72 97
'77 96L conv.
'79 96GL (LPG)
'83 900i (LPG)
'95 900SE conv.
'99 9-3T
green96v4Posted - 22 Nov 2017 : 10:19:08
see if this helps



From memory, the ground is piggybacked into the main beam 3-pin plug that then grounds on the multi-ground that's screwed into the inner wing under the voltage regulator (I hope that makes sense)
greg124Posted - 21 Nov 2017 : 16:19:55
There are three wires, the black one is ground.
Some time ago I fitted metal registration plates to the 900 using plastic screws. I've tried one of the old steel screws that I removed and it's the correct thread for the light unit. Just got to track down the 'safe place' where I put the left over plastic screws.
...and I've found a sheet of stainless, or to be more precise an old deep fat fryer lid
72sonett3Posted - 14 Nov 2017 : 19:56:12
I forgot if the lights have a dedicated ground wire or if the ground connection is through the bolt and bracket to the steel wing.

If there is no ground wire it would be a good thing to fit one and use plastic bolts.

--
'72 97
'77 96L conv.
'79 96GL (LPG)
'83 900i (LPG)
'95 900SE conv.
'99 9-3T
greg124Posted - 14 Nov 2017 : 19:08:54
Unfortunately there is nothing insulating the steel bolts from the alloy light unit. This has resulted in the first broken bolt on this project. Perhaps I should replace the bolts with plated ones when refitting
72sonett3Posted - 12 Nov 2017 : 21:49:41
On my '77 96 the bracket is steel too. The unit itself is an alloy but it sits inside a rubber boot that insulates it from the steel fender.

--
'72 97
'77 96L conv.
'79 96GL (LPG)
'83 900i (LPG)
'95 900SE conv.
'99 9-3T
greg124Posted - 12 Nov 2017 : 14:04:06
Thank you both.
If someone has made these aluminium brackets up at home, they have taken time and care doing so. Unfortunately they are now badly corroded.
I'm sure I have some stainless lying around somewhere, as this sounds the best solution
mellePosted - 11 Nov 2017 : 14:41:53
They should be steel and as Derek already indicated, most are rotten. I've remade a good few from random scrap metal, both mild steel and stainless.

www.saabv4.com
DerekPosted - 11 Nov 2017 : 11:36:30
On my '76 these U shaped retainers were steel and rusty so I remade them. Can't think why they would be made of an alloy. Any one else with alloy retainers? I can imagine someone making replacements from alloy strip because that's what was available and was easy to bend up.

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