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T O P I C    R E V I E W
diggerPosted - 26 Nov 2017 : 20:58:39
Hi I am based in Hampshire, drive diggers for a living, and am feeling guilty that although I really enjoy following everyone else's projects I have never gotten around to posting any pictures of my own efforts.
I purchased this 1972 Verona Green 96 about 5 years ago with the intention of giving it a quick tidy up and then using it. I have failed spectacularly to stick to this plan and instead dismantled the car completely! Having completed all the necessary welding, I had planned on getting a body shop to spray the car, but I have now strayed from this plan also and I am painting the car myself. This is the first project like this that I have taken on, and I feel I wont know what my limitation are unless I have a bash at things.

This shed I am working in is something that I cobbled out of RSJ and box profile on the site of an old pigsty and the 4 post ramp is an ebay buy. I have taken some pictures of my project so far.






































15   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
diggerPosted - 21 Apr 2018 : 20:04:05
Just a few pictures to update progress on my project. Fitted the petrol tank and tidied up the boot lid.



Decided to make my own dash, so I could make positioning gauges easier.











Engine is now ready to go back in. Recent sunny weather has given me the opportunity to spray the wings and bonnet.









green96v4Posted - 21 Mar 2018 : 10:55:09
This is great info, I've had a repair kit delivered to Melle's address in NL (long story) so I'm going to attempt the repair for this summer's fun (still waiting for the salt/snow/sand to leave sunny Ontario!!)

quote:
Originally posted by digger
Hi Gareth
Yes they are bright zinc plated, but in an attempt to preserve the finish I've clear lacquered them.
Re peening of the pin, in layman's terms, as I'm far from being an engineer, the bottom brake caliper pin is held in place by a spring and C clip. Where as the top pin, once it's been inserted through the sleeve spring and plate it has to be inserted into the yoke assembly, and the spring compressed so that the end of the pin can be peened (mushroomed over as in riveting) by hitting it with a hammer. It is this mushrooming of the pin that holds it in place. The tricky bit is keeping the spring compressed while you hammer the pin. I hope this makes some sort of sense!

mellePosted - 20 Mar 2018 : 20:45:22
Haha!

www.saabv4.com
diggerPosted - 20 Mar 2018 : 20:36:52
I think I would have been better off using the digger to fit the headlining!
mellePosted - 20 Mar 2018 : 20:32:11
quote:
Originally posted by digger
Although I'm sure Melle will be "impressed"!
I would have used a digger!

www.saabv4.com
diggerPosted - 20 Mar 2018 : 20:12:56
Hi Gareth
Yes they are bright zinc plated, but in an attempt to preserve the finish I've clear lacquered them.
Re peening of the pin, in layman's terms, as I'm far from being an engineer, the bottom brake caliper pin is held in place by a spring and C clip. Where as the top pin, once it's been inserted through the sleeve spring and plate it has to be inserted into the yoke assembly, and the spring compressed so that the end of the pin can be peened (mushroomed over as in riveting) by hitting it with a hammer. It is this mushrooming of the pin that holds it in place. The tricky bit is keeping the spring compressed while you hammer the pin. I hope this makes some sort of sense!
DirtbikerPosted - 19 Mar 2018 : 19:42:19
All jobs are easier when it's warm!
Did you bright zinc plate the calipers or is that gold paint?
Also, if you get a chance can you elaborate on the peening of the pin? Not a job I have done before but I have a really good pair of calipers I would like to make "as new" for the green car.
Cheers
Gareth
diggerPosted - 19 Mar 2018 : 18:32:04
Thanks for the link Simon, looks very helpful. I hadn't even realised that you could use heat to shrink the vinyl in a small area. I think leaving it to settle and for the weather to warm up is the way to go! I'll have a go at adding tension side to side as Betsy67 suggests, shouldn't be a problem as the edges are fixed with 3m refix tape, which allows you to reposition the vinyl when you mess it up! Thanks again for your advice. I can add this to the growing list of jobs that are easier when it's warm!
Betsy67Posted - 19 Mar 2018 : 12:48:28
Headlinings are a pain in the rear end to do. Not a good time of year to do it. Anything vinyl related works much better when its warm. Doesnt look too bad, but you wont be happy with it. Let it settle and come back to it when its warmer. Only looks like it needs a bit of tension side to side.
Good effort.
UK_SubPosted - 19 Mar 2018 : 10:40:24
I wonder if the headliner needs time to 'settle'. I've seen upholsters use a steamer to shrink material on seats, I wonder if this would work on the headlining too?

Simon
ps: just did a quick google and found this, which might help...

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/help-headliner-wont-shrink-up.19649/
diggerPosted - 18 Mar 2018 : 14:54:24
Have been attempting to fit a new headlining this week. Not particularly happy with results, looks more like a Bedouin tent. If the results continue to bug me I may have to get it done professionally somewhen in the future. Also put the glass back in, with the help of Rachel. I'm thinking I should've asked her to do the headlining as well.






Not saab related, but I've won the contract to put a new clutch in Marcus's BMW Mini. Have discovered why it was slipping, piece of metal had fallen out of the dual mass flywheel which the clutch cover plate proceeded to smash through the wall of the gearbox housing, thus soaking the clutch in gearbox oil. Automotive progress is a wonderful thing

green96v4Posted - 04 Mar 2018 : 16:36:58
excellent!!
diggerPosted - 04 Mar 2018 : 14:51:50
I winged it by adapting my coil spring pre-compressor (old school table with a length of threaded bar fixed through it. This seemed to work a treat, although probably not the method originally used by Saab. Although I'm sure Melle will be "impressed"!



green96v4Posted - 04 Mar 2018 : 14:09:05
cool thanks for the info, I have s/s pistons in mine too, curious to know how to "peen" the end of the top pin, bottom one is easy with the c-clip, but not sure if I need some sort of bench press or special tool/technique
diggerPosted - 04 Mar 2018 : 13:29:24
I was lucky with the callipers as I'm guessing they had been rebuilt in the not so distant past, so although they were grotty they came apart okay as the pins were still loose. The bits just needed cleaning and replating. I replaced the pistons which were pitted with some stainless steel ones that I'd bought some time ago. Although they were the right diameter they appeared to be longer than the originals, so rather than risk causing the pads to bind I turned 1.5mm off them so they matched the originals, not sure if this was necessary but seemed the safest option in the long run.

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