T O P I C R E V I E W |
andydeans3 | Posted - 17 Dec 2018 : 22:42:41 I was thinking, (for corrosion prevention), of plumbing a line to feed warm air from the heater vent, into the sill box section on either side of the car.
On the vent pipes up to the windscreen there is a "T" coming off that feeds warm air to the side screens. I was thinking of occasionally plumbing in there with a small flexible pipe, feeding it down the back of the storage boxes to the right and left of the front passenger section, and then drilling a hole in the top of the box section, just by the driver and passenger's right and left foot. Maybe a hole about 10mm or so. Then drive around for a day or two blowing warm air in there.
Is this daft, or could it help keep the sill box sections dry, and so help, in the long term, prevent sill corrosion?
Andy
1978 LHD SAAB 96 1978 MGB Roadster 2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo 1991 Nissan Figaro |
13 L A T E S T R E P L I E S (Newest First) |
melle | Posted - 23 Dec 2018 : 19:34:03 I use Valvoline Tectyl ML.
www.saabv4.com |
rannsachair | Posted - 23 Dec 2018 : 08:32:44 Based on https://www.auson.se/sites/default/files/rusttest_noxudol_700_classic_monthly_uk.pdf
I have been using on my Landrover and and Alfa
I have used Dinitrol in the past and was quite happy with it. |
greg124 | Posted - 22 Dec 2018 : 18:28:16 I also favour Dintrol over Waxoyl. Used it on the Alvis when I replaced the sills about 12 years ago and there are no obvious signs of tin worm problems. Dinitrol do a range of rust protection products. 3125 is the one for use inside cavities. As Derek says, prices do vary a lot. I found Rustbuster Ltd quite reasonable |
Derek | Posted - 22 Dec 2018 : 11:36:23 Anything is better than nothing but I'd go for Dinitrol over Waxoyl. Google Dinitrol Scotland. If going DIY, shop around for prices as they vary a lot. Several useful YouTube videos out there. Bilt-Hammer getting a good reputation but still a small company and maybe a bit expensive. |
andydeans3 | Posted - 22 Dec 2018 : 10:34:36 TTruckie I think, from what I've read, ACF50 has to be re-done every year or so.
Also saw some good reports about cavity wax by Bilt Hamber called S50. Perhaps I'll use both, thought there probably some reason why I shouldn't!
So much stuff out there, so many opinions what is good, not so good, bad, etc in terms of protecting box sections.
Andy
1978 LHD SAAB 96 1978 MGB Roadster 2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo 1991 Nissan Figaro |
TTruckie | Posted - 21 Dec 2018 : 22:02:05 ACF50 is fantastic stuff but will it have the longevity of waxoyl? |
andydeans3 | Posted - 20 Dec 2018 : 22:03:15 Yep, I've done that today, two 12 mm holes at strategic places under the kick guard on top of the sill section. Thinking now of pumping in ACF 50.
Andy
1978 LHD SAAB 96 1978 MGB Roadster 2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo 1991 Nissan Figaro |
TTruckie | Posted - 20 Dec 2018 : 20:26:17 Yep that’s what I did with the Sonett. Couple of holes in the inner sill and bunged up afterwards |
melle | Posted - 19 Dec 2018 : 08:23:05 That's what I would do. Drill an extra hole in the sill and plug it when done, that's how pros do it.
www.saabv4.com |
andydeans3 | Posted - 19 Dec 2018 : 00:58:16 Yep, but have to get it dry first. I have sprayed XCP Rust beater, from both ends, through the rubber bung holes, in there in the past, though the extended lance wasn't long enough to reach the middle.
A very, very long time ago, I actually completely filled the sill box sections on my MGB. Hot summers day, waxoil canister in a bucket of hot water. Car on ramps, pumped in the bottom, till it came out of a hole at the top. Might be the way to go again.
1978 LHD SAAB 96 1978 MGB Roadster 2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo 1991 Nissan Figaro |
TTruckie | Posted - 18 Dec 2018 : 23:05:26 i'll second the liberal application of waxoyl in the cavity |
melle | Posted - 18 Dec 2018 : 19:28:36 I think so too, same effect as on single pane glazing. I think waxoil is a better idea to be honest.
www.saabv4.com |
chris steeden | Posted - 18 Dec 2018 : 16:17:58 I would have thought that the warm diverted air might condensate when it hits the cold sills thus causing the opposite effect you require and produce rust rust rust. |