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 Quick fix for stuck heater valve...

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T O P I C    R E V I E W
pchristyPosted - 19 Mar 2015 : 17:07:34
Regulars on here will recall that when I briefly took back ownership of my 95 last year, it returned with the heater stuck "on"! In the middle of summer!

I managed to free it off by partly draining the cooling system, removing the hoses from the valve and unscrewing the valve housing from the heater cover.

Because I couldn't remove it completely without dismantling the heater to remove the capillary tube, I tried fixing it in place by soaking it in WD-40 (or was it Plus-Gas?) and then trying to waggle the lever. After a good soaking, it freed of very rapidly, and once the WD-40 had evaporated, I gave it a shot of spray silicone grease and it worked beautifully - in fact freer than either of the other V4s I've owned!

Fast forward to this week and the heater valve on my 96 stuck fully on - presumably a result of being laid up for a while undergoing a body restoration.

I didn't fancy tearing all the skin off my fingers and knuckles again, so I thought I'd try an easier route.

First, I drilled a hole in the side of the valve housing:



Then, I squirted a generous shot of WD-40 in through the hole.

The valve housing is open underneath, and there is enough space to be able to get your fingers on the operating lever and apply some force to it. Be careful though, as there are some sharp edges inside! However, this saves trying to do it via the lever on the dash and kinking the cable! (Guess why I'm telling you this! )

Anyway, after a good soaking, the lever started to move fairly easily, so I un-kinked the cable (Grrr!), and suddenly normal operation was restored!

I finished off by squirting some lubricant in through the hole, and its now working better than at any time since I bought the car!

And it would have been a LOT easier if I hadn't tried to force it in the first place, kinking the cable in the process!

It might be worth drilling the hole even if you aren't having any problems, and squirt some kind of lubricant in there once a year. Prevention is better than cure.....!



--
Pete
"Duct tape is like the Force: It has a light side and a dark side, and it binds the Universe together!"
5   L A T E S T    R E P L I E S    (Newest First)
DoivePosted - 17 Jan 2019 : 11:41:14
Ours had a jammed heater valve, but on disassembling it all, it turned out to be a seized control cable, and the valve itself was fine. Immersed the cable in hot oil for an hour, and it's now silky smooth.

1970 95 V4 van
1972 Sonett 3
1973 95 V4 estate
EdinburghJoePosted - 15 Jan 2019 : 16:47:51
I had a reluctant heater control - so far not jammed, but heading that way. I tried Pete's cure and it seems to have worked. The only problem I had was that I tried to drill the hole in the same place as on the photo, but I think I was a bit too far below and to the left, and I ended up drilling into an internal plastic ridge on the inside of the cover. Realised the problem fairly quickly and re-drilled above and right - much better!

Thanks for the tip.
pchristyPosted - 20 Mar 2015 : 16:08:13
quote:
Originally posted by Derek
When I tried to un kink the cable on mine the "circle" broke off....


Yes, the 95 had a "repair" done using the screw connector from a "chocolate block" electrical connector. A bit fiddly to adjust under the dash, but once set up, it worked fine.

I managed to straighten the one on the 96, but I suspect it will snap if it ever kinks again. I promise to be VERY careful.....

--
Pete
"Duct tape is like the Force: It has a light side and a dark side, and it binds the Universe together!"
DerekPosted - 19 Mar 2015 : 18:56:34
When I tried to un kink the cable on mine the "circle" broke off. There was just enough left to roll another on the end after loosening it off at the valve end but it then wouldn't get the last 10% of travel. No probs as it was super hot even at that position.
I agree it's a bit of a knuckle bashing job.

I was going to offer you a heater box for repainting to match your nice new red paint but noticed that the bleed valve position is out of the side while the one I have one comes out the back. Didn't realise until I went to do the paint stripping so had to remove mine and do that. What year did they change? Could re drill it I suppose.
UK_SubPosted - 19 Mar 2015 : 17:18:12
Going to try this fix at the weekend!

Cheers Pete.

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