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 1972 V4 Boot + Door Lock - Disassemble
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Woody
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2373 Posts

Posted - 18 Jan 2011 :  20:52:00 Show Profile Reply with Quote
The Troll's boot lock seized on me during the really cold weather in December last year so I had to remove it for stripping. The barrel had previously been free and had no problems locking or unlocking. Now It wouldn't unlock. I had tried washing the key slot out with WD40 and lubricating it with silicon spray. This freed the barrel off enough to get the key to unlock.
Once removed the barrel was stripped out of the assembly. The L shaped levers came out easily - too easily. I wondered how I was going to get them back in. The lock came from my second V4 (1972) which I bought back in 1977. It became apparent that the lock had been dismantled before 1977 as there were some parts missing - two small ball bearings and a spring that fitted in the collar. These I checked were in the 1969 boot lock from the old rally car. Apparently the lack of these components hadn't been too detrimental, plus removed the worry of how I was going to reinstall them safely.
Seeing as these items were missing I withdrew the collar that the L brackets fitted into. I found that the end disc was loose and came out, thus I could put the collar back in, insert the L pegs and allow the parts to drop slightly to enable insertion of the end disc.
I was concerned that washing out the lock barrel had made operation notchy. The slot was blown out with a foot pump and small nozzle then sprayed again with silicon. The barrel was reinstalled in the lock body and put back in the car.
Operation is a lot better though still a little sloppy.





Edited by - Woody on 18 Feb 2011 00:07:57

john-saab
Administrator

United Kingdom
2647 Posts

Posted - 18 Jan 2011 :  20:56:36 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Nice work but you shouldn't really use wet products in a lock..it encourages dirt to stick and causes wear..what should be used is graphite powder..get a HB pencil and rub it lots on a rough card..use the powder in the lock.
You can buy graphite powder from a good lock smiths.
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pchristy
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1737 Posts

Posted - 19 Jan 2011 :  10:04:56 Show Profile Reply with Quote
My boot-lock seized up over a year ago, having been sticky for a while. I managed to get the barrel out, but the problem was actually in the "locking" section at the end - where the little rods stick out through the holes. These were jamming.

John-saab kindly sent me a couple of spare locks, but the key supplied wouldn't work either, and I couldn't dismantle either for this reason. (Must let you have those back, John!)

So, I had to try and fix the one I had.

I left it soaking in a jar of paraffin for a week - diesel would probably have been better, but I didn't have any! That seemed to clean a lot of the crud out and get the thing working, but it was still sticky and prone to jamming. So I started poking grease down the holes that the locking pins stick out of, and working the lock to get the grease circulating in the end section. Eventually I managed to get a decent amount of grease in there, and the lock has been working smoothly for over a year now!

I couldn't figure out how to get the end bit with the locking pins apart! It looked like a sealed unit! Just how did you manage to get that bit apart?



--
Pete
"Duct tape is like the Force: It has a light side and a dark side, and it binds the Universe together!"
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Woody
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2373 Posts

Posted - 19 Jan 2011 :  19:53:27 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I think the former owner had the same problem. I suspect the collar was pulled with long reach pliers, thus releasing the ball bearings, the "L" rods pushed through, and the end cap tapped down. I guess he could n't get the ball bearings to re-seat so left them out or lost them. The end of the barrel outer is staked either side to stop the cover coming out. If the stakes are good you should be able to get it back in ok.
I could strip it again and take assembly photos.

Edited by - Woody on 19 Jan 2011 19:55:25
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pchristy
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1737 Posts

Posted - 21 Jan 2011 :  10:44:02 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Thanks for the offer, Woody, but don't strip it just to photo it! Mine is curently working fine, and I know what worked to fix it last time!

If I have to strip it again, I'll look much more closely at it, now I know it comes apart!

Cheers,



--
Pete
"Duct tape is like the Force: It has a light side and a dark side, and it binds the Universe together!"
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Woody
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2373 Posts

Posted - 18 Feb 2011 :  00:09:12 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Below my 1972 Driver's door lock dismantled. The barrel end to the key barrel wasn't turning with the key. Inside this barrel end was a build up of grit and dust which looked like a gasket. There is some wear in the key barrel which is slotted. You can see how the slot has been worn away making the lock sloppy. I don't know whether I can recover it for use. The passenger door also has stopped working so will require the same treatment.

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Woody
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2373 Posts

Posted - 18 Feb 2011 :  00:13:04 Show Profile Reply with Quote
The lock has been reassembled and lubricated with graphite shavings. It appears to be working so I shall put it in the passenger door and strip that one now.

I might add I had left the components on the dining table as it is nicer working in the warm and easier to find anything should a spring jump out. My wife tidied up and moved them thus jumbling all the parts up. Lucky I had taken the photo so I could see what went where....
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Woody
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2373 Posts

Posted - 18 Feb 2011 :  00:14:39 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Removed and stripped the passenger door lock as below.

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rsimps
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1616 Posts

Posted - 18 Feb 2011 :  07:49:09 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Wife is probably trying to tell you something!
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Woody
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2373 Posts

Posted - 20 Feb 2011 :  12:55:40 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I wrote : "The lock has been reassembled and lubricated with graphite shavings. It appears to be working so I shall put it in the passenger door and strip that one now."

Didn't last long, as it failed very quickly. Need to make something to take up the slack where the key barrel is worn as shown in pic above. New component would be a bonus.
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Woody
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2373 Posts

Posted - 20 Feb 2011 :  13:02:21 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I had fun getting the collar with the ball bearings back in. Used a long screw secured in the end and a tube of heat shrink warmed to reduce to the width of the collar. This kept the balls in place whilst the collar was pulled into place by the long screw. Sorry I didn't get a photo of the procedure. Have another two locks to do now.

Edited by - Woody on 20 Feb 2011 13:04:06
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72sonett3
V4 Fan

Spain
187 Posts

Posted - 21 Feb 2011 :  18:30:36 Show Profile Reply with Quote
quote:
...the key supplied wouldn't work either, and I couldn't dismantle either for this reason.

Can you only take the lock apart if you hve a key?

On my '77 96 I have a pitted dull chrome one with a key, and a shiny spare one without key. I planned to swap the lock cilinder, but if I can only get the spare one open with the key it is no good to me...

--
'72 97
'77 96L
'79 96GL
'91 900i 2.1
'95 900SE
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Woody
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2373 Posts

Posted - 21 Feb 2011 :  20:21:22 Show Profile Reply with Quote
The key needs to be in to enable the barrel to be turned partially so that the spring loaded plunger can engage in the hole in the inner barrel. This enables the main barrel to be removed from the lock holder and also for the brass cover to be removed from the key barrel and gain access to the springs and plungers. A locksmith with some sort of master key might be able to do it.
Could do with a few new key barrels as shown above second right bottom row.
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Woody
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2373 Posts

Posted - 21 Feb 2011 :  20:33:12 Show Profile Reply with Quote
The shiny cover can be slipped off the lock with out needing the key. You need to prize up the cover where the hole and dimple is on the underside (once removed from door handle). This will enable the chrome sleeve to be forced off. Once transferred press back down with pair of grips.
Does your handle still have a rubber O-ring in the groove?
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