| Author |  Topic  |
john-saab
Administrator
United Kingdom
2679 Posts |  Posted - 26 Feb 2011 : 18:43:59  
| Thing is my oil pressure was 35-40 psi just before it went (I have a Smiths oil pressure gauge and it seems reliable)..It may have gone quickly (I was travelling at speed and in the dark when it let go)but I had a rocker arm problem (excessive noise and serious wear on the shaft) a little while before the engine failed, I replaced the rocker shaft and arm and i thought that was the end of it. When I removed the cam followers the follower closest to the front, and the same one I had the rocker arm problem with, had a small piece missing from the outer edge on the cam end..it was a real pain to get out and it only came out after the cam shaft had been removed and it was pushed into the block rather than out of the top like the others...when i looked at it on the bench I noticed it was slightly bent..i replaced it and the new one moves smoothly, i don't thing the bore for the follower is damaged and from what i could test the camshaft lobes were fine.
My 30+ year old valve spring compressor gave up today so that stopped me stripping the heads down..i will buy a new one in the morning and carry on.
I'm chasing up a set of steel timing gear i was promised a year ago so may wait until that arrives before i finish it..fingers crossed I will be able to get hold of them early this week. |  |
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Derek
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
2190 Posts | Posted - 26 Feb 2011 : 18:49:33
| | Sonett's tick over should be 850-900rpm as well, so pressure would/should be higher than that.............. | |
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pchristy
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
1790 Posts | Posted - 26 Feb 2011 : 23:27:48
| quote:
Originally posted by john-saab
Thing is my oil pressure was 35-40 psi just before it went
But was that at tickover, or cruising? I've always been under the impression that anything over 40 psi at running speeds was a bonus, and that at tickover anything over 25 psi was good!
Thinking back to my original '69 car, I used to run that on 20w-50. I'm running my current car on 10w-40, which is thinner, and therefore I would expect the pressure to be lower.
Remember the '69 was was brand new! As I say, I never saw more than 45 psi on it, and tickover was typically just under 30.
My current car may show 80 psi for a few moments on cold mornings. but settles down to 60 psi running and 25-30 idling when warm.
I would be very interested to hear what other people get!
Every Ford I've had has always had low oil pressure compared to other cars. My wife had Ford Pops, Anglias and Escorts, and all ran very low tickover pressure. I had a Fairlane and an LTD - both 5.8 V8s - and again, tickover oil pressure when hot struggled to make 20 psi! The LTD was calibrated in bar, but used to hover just (and only just!) out of the red zone when hot - well under 15 psi! But they all ran for years like that without problems! I had that LTD for 14 years, and it was still running sweetly when I sold it!
I've never known a Ford engine manage those kinds of pressures when hot, so I take my hat off to 77sonnet3 for what seems to be an excellent re-build!
--
Pete
"Duct tape is like the Force: It has a light side and a dark side, and it binds the Universe together!" | |
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72sonett3
V4 Fanatic
Spain
269 Posts | Posted - 27 Feb 2011 : 10:16:51
| quote:
... so I take my hat off to 77sonnet3 for what seems to be an excellent re-build!
I replaced the balance shaft bearings and the crankshaft and big end bearings, and put in a new high volume V6 oil pump. After that oil pressure was OK until two years ago when it began to drop. I suspected the BS bearings but they were fine. Turned out to be the camshaft bearings, the middle one looked like john-saab´s, so I had them replaced.
After that the oil pressure was as pictured.
I have a cheap ´Equus´ brand oil pressure gauge, maybe that or its sensor is a bit optimistic...
--
'72 97
'77 96L
'79 96GL
'91 900i 2.1
'95 900SE |
Edited by - 72sonett3 on 27 Feb 2011 13:48:18 | |
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pchristy
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
1790 Posts | Posted - 27 Feb 2011 : 11:37:57
| quote:
Originally posted by 72sonett3
[quote].....and put in a new high volume V6 oil pump.
Ah! That probably explains a lot!
I doubt if a standard pump could manage that much pressure, even if the relief valve spring is "tweaked", as often recommended!
Cheers,
--
Pete
"Duct tape is like the Force: It has a light side and a dark side, and it binds the Universe together!" | |
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Woody
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
2763 Posts | Posted - 27 Feb 2011 : 12:56:00
| My old rally motor has a standard pump with the Saab Sport & Rally HD spring installed in accordance with the tuning guide. It would give 100psi when cold and around 80-95 when warm. If the pressure dropped to below 55-60psi(4bar) under load then the engine needs checking.
I don't know what the difference is between the standard V4 pump and the V6 pump, but the standard pump is quite robust enough. For rallying it needs to be checked for wear at the cogs. |
Edited by - Woody on 27 Feb 2011 13:00:15 | |
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72sonett3
V4 Fanatic
Spain
269 Posts | Posted - 27 Feb 2011 : 14:15:31
| quote:
I don't know what the difference is between the standard V4 pump and the V6 pump...
I bought it from Motor Sport Service (MSS - Jack Lawrence) as a High Volume oil pump, so I suppose it delivers more oil rather than higher pressure. The V6 HV pump has a slightly higher body and gears - hence more volume.
At http://www.oldcars.de/cgi-bin/shop/shop_en.pl?f=NR&c=42382330-11&t=temartic&userid=4239&exact=1 they even sell a HV V4/V6 pump cheaper than a standard V4 pump, 89 vs 122 euro...
Their V6 and HV V4 oil pumps have the same part number.
--
'72 97
'77 96L
'79 96GL
'91 900i 2.1
'95 900SE |
Edited by - 72sonett3 on 27 Feb 2011 16:02:36 | |
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rsimps
V4 Guru
United Kingdom
1616 Posts | Posted - 28 Feb 2011 : 08:00:06
| All my cars have 75 to 90 psi warm with a v6 competition pump (Kent cams or Burtons) or the original sport and rally spring. On odd engines like my Skoda I have fitted washers under the pressure release spring. Volume is what you are looking for, but you need the engine oil galleries large enough to flow the extra volume, so you normally end up with extra pressure to increase the flow. Some engine tuners will re-bore the galleries on some engines to gain flow.
The std warning switch is pretty useless, you want one at 25 psi then you also can tell if you are getting oil surge up the block when cornering. My next engine will run a lower oil level and have baffle plates and block breathers to aid cranking pressures, but you need something like above to give some feed back. | |
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john-saab
Administrator
United Kingdom
2679 Posts | Posted - 28 Feb 2011 : 18:12:00
| Onto the cylinder heads and after removing the valves i wanted to replace the exhaust studs..the area was flakey and i tapped some of the crusty rust away to find a hole..
I have other heads so this one will probably be scrapped.
I have a few manifold studs that fit but does anyone know what thread these use as standard? |
Edited by - john-saab on 28 Feb 2011 18:16:38 | |
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jdt
V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom
340 Posts | Posted - 28 Feb 2011 : 18:45:50
| | Manifold stud thread is M10 | |
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john-saab
Administrator
United Kingdom
2679 Posts | Posted - 28 Feb 2011 : 19:05:11
| | That's what i thought..cheers! | |
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jdt
V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom
340 Posts | Posted - 28 Feb 2011 : 19:09:33
| | Studs usually shear off when you remove them - even heat does not seem to work so usually have to drill and retap them - I have used helicoils sucessfully as well | |
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john-saab
Administrator
United Kingdom
2679 Posts | Posted - 22 Mar 2011 : 19:19:03
| The engine is ready to go back in..unexpected work (my day job) meant i'm behind schedule.
I want to do a few jobs before the front panel goes back on..as ever other work turns up so what was going to be quick tidy will turn into a "get it ready for the MOT which isn't far away" situation.
There have always been a few scabby areas around the front of the car..with the front panel off it was easy to remove the bumper and the passengers side wing..this was to get at the front valence..
I had spotted this rot area on day one but it wasn't until i removed the bumper i saw the other side also needs work..
The passengers side wing came off with ease..just the bottom screw gave a fight..i started to take the drivers side wing off but i tore a muscle in my left sholder over the weekend so i'm working at 1/10 normal speed and finally gave up.
Once the wing was off i could gauge the work needed..this area had a crude patch some time in the past and it has broke through again..
What I would really like to find is the front edge of the drivers side inner wing so that I can repair the bodge done some time in the past..it doesn't meet the wing and i'm sure it's not really welded on properly..
I also remembered a bit of work needed around the front brake flexi hose mounting point..
Plus the steering gaitor has split...this was replaced for the last MOT so not good..cheap aftermarket parts!
current V4 models..'72 95 (The Flying Banana),'72 96 (Bridget),'74 95 (Veronica),'74 96 (The Brown one) | |
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john-saab
Administrator
United Kingdom
2679 Posts | Posted - 30 Apr 2011 : 09:09:35
| The passengers side is done..no pics at the moment.
My requests for a repair section for the drivers side inner wing didn't work so there was only one option..make it!
A reminder of what the problem was..a rot/damaged area had been plated with little care to detail..the front edge had also rotted out..
Job No1 was to make a new front edge, I folded and oversize piece of steel and cut a series of grooves so that it would follow a rough profile..this was backed up with several fit and re-fitting of the wing to achieve the correct profile..the original repair was terrible and the front edge of the wing never fitted properly..
Excess cut off..seams welded and roughly hammered into shape..
The panel was then cleaned up..with a little more dressing it was almost ready.
I chopped out the front edge leaving some of the original panels for later reference..
And finally welded the new section in..
Then onto that horrible repair..the section was cut out after i had made a new section..this was done using a variety of tools, not a perfect panel but its a lot better than the flat panel and underseal used before..
And welded into place..
My ongoing back problems finished the day early..it needs a lot more dressing and flattening..there is still the front of the valence to do but time is running out as it's Swedish Day in 8 days..the gearbox has to be fitted, the new engine has to be fitted and i still have a little more work to do before the wings go back on..i have a full week ahead of me and as I said my back isn't giving me much joy so will it get done?..only time will tell!
current V4 models..'72 95 (The Flying Banana),'72 96 (Bridget),'74 95 (Veronica),'74 96 (The Brown one) | |
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transit80
V4 Mad
United Kingdom
775 Posts | Posted - 30 Apr 2011 : 13:23:33
| Nice looking repair there John.Get yer finger out for Swedish day .
Chris | |
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| Topic | |
Veronica
