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 Valve spring compressor
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john-saab
Administrator

United Kingdom
2679 Posts

Posted - 28 Feb 2011 :  08:32:16 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I have stripped many heads using my very old valve spring compressor (i'm guessing it's 50+ years old hydraulic item) but it failed last week and i'm looking to buy a new one..i borrowed a friends compressor and it just wouldn't compress the springs..it was a Sykes Pickervant compressor as sold by Halfords. What model do you guys use?

rsimps
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1616 Posts

Posted - 28 Feb 2011 :  12:32:35 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Mine was probably made in the 30's. Try Burtons, but you normally only need a screw type. You only need to move them a little, then fish the collets out.
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72sonett3
V4 Fanatic

Spain
269 Posts

Posted - 28 Feb 2011 :  17:54:01 Show Profile Reply with Quote
quote:
... valve spring compressor ... What model do you guys use?
I've made a tool out of two pieces of tube and a large washer;



Saab/Ford has its own tool;


--
'72 97
'77 96L
'79 96GL
'91 900i 2.1
'95 900SE
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jdt
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
340 Posts

Posted - 28 Feb 2011 :  18:44:33 Show Profile Reply with Quote
You need to loosen the collets first as they get tight in the spring retainer - I use a socket and give a good tap with a hammer to loosen them before using the spring compressor
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john-saab
Administrator

United Kingdom
2679 Posts

Posted - 28 Feb 2011 :  19:43:21 Show Profile Reply with Quote
The problem was a failing seal in my old hydraulic compressor..i adapted a friends one to work so the rush to find one for this job is off..but i will buy the proper tool if i can find one that is a good fit for the Taunus head.
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Woody
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2764 Posts

Posted - 28 Feb 2011 :  20:53:54 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Sykes-Pickavant Model 38500. Bought to accomodate the V4 heads and the side valve Ford Jeep engine. It has an adjustable shoe for variable size valve retainers.

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john-saab
Administrator

United Kingdom
2679 Posts

Posted - 28 Feb 2011 :  21:11:11 Show Profile Reply with Quote
That's almost the same as the one I used today but the spring end forks were just a little to small for the spring top plate and the inside groove was a little to narrow to allow the collets to come out with ease..it was also a little to short on the body and the whole thing sat at an awkward angle..it done the job though.
Thanks Woody..that's the model i will buy!
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Woody
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2764 Posts

Posted - 28 Feb 2011 :  21:52:41 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Here is the shoe in place on the V4 head:-
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john-saab
Administrator

United Kingdom
2679 Posts

Posted - 28 Feb 2011 :  21:55:33 Show Profile Reply with Quote
That looks to be a perfect fit...the search is on!
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Clive H
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
394 Posts

Posted - 28 Feb 2011 :  23:13:17 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I've used one from Machine Mart. Quality not great but it does the job - as jdt suggested, a sharp tap to free the collets makes things a bit easier.

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/product/details/cht462-ohv-spring-compressor/path/engine-service-and-re-build-tools
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rsimps
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1616 Posts

Posted - 01 Mar 2011 :  12:17:40 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I have one like 72sonett3's, but we converted a plug to take a metal rod that holds the valve up on the seat, you can then change a spring on the car with engine in situ.
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john-saab
Administrator

United Kingdom
2679 Posts

Posted - 01 Mar 2011 :  12:53:00 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I used to have a tool that would remove the springs on the car..i would take the spark plug out and insert a length of sash window cord into the bore..about a meter..hand wind the engine until you start to feel resistance and that would mean that the cord had touched the cylinder head..that would stop the valve dropping..the tool was lent out to a "friend" who then vanished without returning it.
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72sonett3
V4 Fanatic

Spain
269 Posts

Posted - 01 Mar 2011 :  13:01:38 Show Profile Reply with Quote
quote:
...we converted a plug to take a metal rod that holds the valve up on the seat, you can then change a spring on the car with engine in situ.
This is Ford/Saab's tool to do that;


You can do without this tool as long as you take care that the cylinder you are working on has its piston in TDC. The valve can only drop 1/2" or so before touching the piston.
I used the compressor to replace the valve stem oil seals, no need to take the heads off the block, valve covers only.

--
'72 97
'77 96L
'79 96GL
'91 900i 2.1
'95 900SE
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pchristy
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1790 Posts

Posted - 01 Mar 2011 :  13:18:51 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I'm told you can also achieve this by feeding a length of rope down the plug-hole, then turning the engine over until that piston reaches TDC. The rope will stop the valve dropping!

I was given this tip by an old mechanic friend, but I've never tried it!



--
Pete
"Duct tape is like the Force: It has a light side and a dark side, and it binds the Universe together!"
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john-saab
Administrator

United Kingdom
2679 Posts

Posted - 01 Mar 2011 :  13:56:28 Show Profile Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by pchristy
I'm told you can also achieve this by feeding a length of rope down the plug-hole, then turning the engine over until that piston reaches TDC. The rope will stop the valve dropping!

I was given this tip by an old mechanic friend, but I've never tried it!


Ahem...
quote:
Originally posted by john-saab
.i would take the spark plug out and insert a length of sash window cord into the bore..about a meter..hand wind the engine until you start to feel resistance and that would mean that the cord had touched the cylinder head..that would stop the valve dropping.

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pchristy
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1790 Posts

Posted - 01 Mar 2011 :  23:48:13 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I blame it on senile dementia.......!

;)



--
Pete
"Duct tape is like the Force: It has a light side and a dark side, and it binds the Universe together!"
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