|Author|| Topic |
|Posted - 04 Jun 2011 : 19:03:06 |
| I NEED one of those..either that or i butcher a Solex plate.|
current V4 models..'72 95 (The Flying Banana),'72 96 (Bridget),'74 95 (Veronica),'74 96 (The Brown one)
Edited by - john-saab on 05 Jun 2011 06:33:22
|Posted - 04 Jun 2011 : 21:33:01 |
| I've once bought such a vacuum plate for transit80 in NL for only €10,- (At the local Saab celebrity Harm van der Laan, he has loads of them, was there with 72sonett3 at the time ) No problem to post one if you want, can take a while though since I don't come there so often as I live in DK now.|
1970 Saab 96V4 "The Devil's Own V4"
1977 Saab 95V4 van conversion project
|Posted - 05 Jun 2011 : 06:32:52 |
| Yes please..i'm in no hurry.|
current V4 models..'72 95 (The Flying Banana),'72 96 (Bridget),'74 95 (Veronica),'74 96 (The Brown one)NOW SOLD..destined for greater things
|Posted - 05 Jun 2011 : 11:27:55 |
That's the one! I know its not exclusively for Webers, but that's what its most commonly associated with.
The SSR catalog shows one of these for a Weber 32/36 without the dam between the two barrels;
I adapted the one for the Weber in my Sonett;
(With a plug instead of a horizontal nipple for the brake assist, as the Sonett does not have any...)
'91 900i 2.1
|Posted - 05 Jun 2011 : 20:06:07 |
| Tony – Boom boom! Very good, have you sorted your engine yet?|
Ian - only ever been welded with my own fair hands! Mostly when I was seventeen outdoors with a stick welder so the plan is to chop it out and repeat seamlessly with the mig in the garage. It's actually rock solid underneath, the MOT testers always used to be surprised as the body is a little tatty, they would get it up on the ramp expecting a rot box! Your car is looking great by the way.
Pete – Yes, I thought these were rare as but seems maybe not over in Scandinavia?
|Posted - 02 Oct 2011 : 19:57:07 |
| Right then, work has started!|
Pretty happy with the what I have found, no nasty surpises. The rust on the O/S rear in the photo is just light surface rust - evrything so far has been rock solid.
I should have a bit more time to work on the car as winter rolls in, at least one evening a week and the odd Sunday. My goal is to get the underside stripped, all the welding done (not much) then painted with the suspension rebuilt and the car back on it's wheels in the spring.
Any advice on what to use for the underside would be appreciated. I am thinking underseal off, blast it, paint it with something like POR15 then stonechip. Then probably paint (spray) the suspension components but with what...?
|Posted - 02 Oct 2011 : 21:55:36 |
| Have a look at Frosts web site. They used to stock a product called Eastwood's Chassis black. Very hard wearing ideal for axle, drag links brake back plates and front wishbones. I used the original shown below but the satin looks even better. Had to have the atmosphere right otherwise the nozzle would clog. I sprayed my roll bar with it.|
Edited by - Woody on 02 Oct 2011 21:58:23
|Posted - 07 Oct 2011 : 19:25:24 |
| i'd use a 2 component epoxy paint like Epoxy Mastic or Jotun for anything where finish is not an issue|
|Posted - 15 Nov 2011 : 20:01:07 |
| Thanks Woody and Ade, sorry for the slow reply!|
Got a bit further with chopping out rust and removing underseal. Some of the underseal on the main floorpan is peeling off in big soft sheets leaving SAABs own primer looking like new!
Had a look on Frosts wesbsite - the Eastwood Satin finish appeals but still undecided.
Any tips on primer and what to clean with before applying? I would like to leave some of the areas of underside in the SAAB primer as they are perfect but I am worried about a reaction with new paint - what do people think?
|Posted - 15 Nov 2011 : 23:36:41 |
| Hi Gareth,Have just bought a 2T.! Already stripped some of the back end very rusty in places.We are strippjng with conical wire brushes and then we are going to apply Corroless primer.This is a marine type paint not cheap but I don't want to do this job again. Jotun products are good and cheaper. Hempels are also good, we use their epoxy 2 pack.Saaburu was sandblasted and hempels epoxied approx. 7 years ago still looking good.Any good marine primer has got to be better than an ordinary one ? Wishing you all the best, Nigel.PS. All these products are on line. Also after we are going to schutz or waxoyl underseal.you can blow this over the original if sound.|
|Posted - 16 Nov 2011 : 13:06:31 |
| Cheers Nigel,|
Would be ok to come down to yours and have a look? (get some tips!)
Away this weekend but around the one after if you are at home working on cars.
|Posted - 16 Nov 2011 : 23:58:04 |
| Sounds good to me. The 2T is entered for the Exeter trial but we won't be ready for that. Come and have a look.My mob is 07836 705263. Karl of course is a sprayer.We all muck in on a project, it would be nice to see you and hopefully give you advice and inspiration! If your working on your own it's good to talk to other people.Send me a txt with your mob. no. Nigel.|
|Posted - 19 Dec 2011 : 16:13:58 |
| UPDATE TIME!!!|
Well, I haven't had much time on the car due to other commitments (winter bike race series, busy at work etc etc...)
But there has been a bit of progress. Decided to attack the rust one side at a time and I knew the NS was worse so I thought I would do this one first. I knew this one would be worse because when the car was parked in a hedge for seven years this was the hedge side!
Started with a bit more of a strip down.
Then drilled lots of spot welds out to get the lower sill off.
Then chopped out some floor...
Pretty happy really. The floor repairs needed are very localised and the Upper sills are 99% rock solid.
The only bit that I think is beyond my capabilities is the panel behind the passenger door as this is dented as well as being rusty. It's curved and I have zero panel beating experience!
I have some new lower sills on the way (thanks Steve at Malbrads) so that should keep me busy in the New Year. I also have a bush kit for the rear axle on the way so can get that fitted once the welding is done. I am still not sure on paint or powder coat for the suspension...? I took Woodys advice (thanks Woody) and bought some Eastwood Satin Chassis Black which I will spray the underside with and was going to do the axle. But we have just had some bike frames and parts powder coated for work and they look great - and cheap and easy! We'll see.
Well not much will be happening on the car over the holidays as just booked a last minute flight to Morocco for ten days.
Have a really good Christmas and New Year everyone and thanks for advice so far with the project!
|Posted - 05 Jan 2012 : 20:10:03 |
New sills arrived at work today so got home and got cracking with a couple of jobs. Stripped the paint off the inside of the upper sill and cleaned up the jacking points. One has come up really well but the other is a little crusty so I could use a replacement if anyone has a spare.
The crusty one on the left was the front one that collects the most dirt. It had also had a patch welded in the centre to disguise a rusty sill many years ago...
|Posted - 14 Jan 2012 : 17:50:16 |
| Had the afternoon in the garage today!|
At the stage now with the NS sill that the rot is cut out and ready to start welding!
Cut everything out into sensible shaped sections then threw some weld through primer at it. Also bare metalled the inside of the upper sill and painted. Decided to leave the dented panel behind the door for now as I need to repair the sill so there is something to weld it too!
Would someone be able to post a pic of what the front of the sill should look like (as below). I can copy the rear off the other side but the front is rusty on both.
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