SAAB V4 Forum
SAAB V4 Forum
Home | Profile | Register | Active Topics | Members | Search | FAQ
Username:
Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

 All Forums
 Technical
 Projects
 SAAB 96 GL scrapyard run
 New Topic  Reply to Topic 
 Printer Friendly 
Previous Page | Next Page
AuthorPrevious Topic Topic Next Topic
Page  of 15

Mr Burrrrrrrrrrt
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
328 Posts

Posted - 22 Feb 2016 :  15:47:53 Show Profile Visit Mr Burrrrrrrrrrt's Homepage Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by john-saab
There is a seller in Hong Kong selling these "10 Pcs Short Circuit Protection TF Aluminum Thermal Fuse 120C 250V 10A" for £2.92 including free postage...would they do the job (I have 4 broken clocks on the shelf).
Did I read somewhere that you need to use low temp solder to prevent the fuse from melting? If that is true i'm guessing you also need a soldering iron with temp control??

'73 96 (Vernon),'74 95 (Veronica)plus 4 other 95's and 2 96's



As the fuse will blow at 120C and the soldering iron will be hotter than that, using a normal soldering iron will blow the fuse. The usual technique is to put a small metal crocodile clip between the joint and the fuse to attempt to dissapate the heat before it reaches the fuse. You must also solder very quickly, minimising the time the heat has got to travel along the fuse leg.
Go to Top of Page

x96
V4 Fanatic

France
238 Posts

Posted - 22 Feb 2016 :  20:41:22 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
Yes, you're right. mine is blown. I took a lot of time to solder the fuse.

Would a thin copper wire do the same fuse function? or this is good option for home purposes and more ampere on the net?


Héctor
Go to Top of Page

Derek
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1778 Posts

Posted - 23 Feb 2016 :  13:12:47 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Sometimes there is enough solder still on the fuse joint for it to be quickly resoldered. I had one where it looked as if the cone of solder had broken mechanically away from one side. There is a small ring on one side. I held the 2 sides together with tweezers and reflowed the solder. Took about half a second. AFAIK it's still ticking away fine. It was a Volvo one which uses the same white clock module.
Go to Top of Page

x96
V4 Fanatic

France
238 Posts

Posted - 23 Feb 2016 :  18:49:36 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
Thanks for the tip Derek, but already is too late, no more 120 degrees solder on the joints
But It would be possible at the beginning, not now.

Maybe a solution can be a mechanical joint between the fuse and the joints.

Héctor
Go to Top of Page

john-saab
Administrator

United Kingdom
2647 Posts

Posted - 23 Feb 2016 :  18:55:26 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Instead of solder what about Electrical conductive glue...just found this...worth a try?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silver-G-Conductive-Glue-Wire-Electrically-Paste-Adhesive-Paint-PCB-Repair-0-2ML-/272138619897?hash=item3f5cb9cbf9:g:KBoAAMXQVT9SxUjl

'73 96 (Vernon),'74 95 (Veronica)plus 4 other 95's and 2 96's
Go to Top of Page

deggsie
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
279 Posts

Posted - 23 Feb 2016 :  20:01:25 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Not heard of this before, so researched a bit - see http://wireglue.co.uk/index.html (has link to UK stockist)

Definitely worth a try IMHO

___________________________
Saab - beyond the conventional !
Go to Top of Page

john-saab
Administrator

United Kingdom
2647 Posts

Posted - 23 Feb 2016 :  20:17:21 Show Profile Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by deggsie
Not heard of this before, so researched a bit - see http://wireglue.co.uk/index.html (has link to UK stockist)

Definitely worth a try IMHO


I'm going to try this..the link you have above works out at £10 including delivery..I have found it for £7 inc del in the UK.

'73 96 (Vernon),'74 95 (Veronica)plus 4 other 95's and 2 96's
Go to Top of Page

deggsie
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
279 Posts

Posted - 23 Feb 2016 :  20:58:52 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Good man, John - let us know how you get on !

___________________________
Saab - beyond the conventional !
Go to Top of Page

Derek
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1778 Posts

Posted - 24 Feb 2016 :  12:35:45 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Good luck with that John, you might want to try it on HRW repair as well.
If you're worried about soldering heat causing the thermal fuse to fail you can approach the repair from a different angle. Yes use a heat sink clip as mentioned on the fuse lead close to the fuse body. Solder a short length of thin insulated wire to each side of the fuse. 25awg single core would be good. Shorten each fuse lead to your preference. You now have 2 leads that you can solder to both sides of the spring fuse connection inside the clock. There should be no heat issues soldering those. What do we do with the fuse you ask. Well you can tie it off inside the clock with thick cotton or something similar, making sure it is out of the way of the moving parts. A blob of silicone might also work. Or you do a slightly more crude way but one which does have an obvious advantage. Drill a small hole in the back of the clock just big enough to take the 2 wires you've soldered to the fuse. Think carefully as to the position of the hole Leaving the fuse outside thread the wires inside and solder as before. You will have to have fairly long leads and you will need to shuffle the lengths that remain inside and out, Again they mustn't foul on anything that moves. Advantage is the fuse is now outside and can be replaced without dismantling the clock. Fuse and any spare wire can be secured to the case with silicone but gaffa/duct tape will do the job too. No I haven't tried it but the only thing that needs care is keeping the wires out of the works. Re reading this I think I would solder the 2 wires onto the clock connections and bring them UP through the hole dressing them so the don't interfere with the works. I'd then mark the wires where they are in relation to the case and the take the case off again. This allows you to see how the wires lie inside the clock. If you then tie a not in the wires at the mark before you put the case back on it will provide a strain relief so you can't move it while doing your soldering etc outside the clock.
5amp fuse is more than enough and will smaller than the 10amp one which makes fitting easier.

Edited by - Derek on 24 Feb 2016 12:44:48
Go to Top of Page

x96
V4 Fanatic

France
238 Posts

Posted - 24 Feb 2016 :  19:21:21 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote


Héctor
Go to Top of Page

x96
V4 Fanatic

France
238 Posts

Posted - 10 Mar 2016 :  17:55:45 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
Finally I used this silver paint





http://www.ebay.fr/itm/Conducteur-argent-Peinture-argentee-Kit-de-reparation-2-grammes-/221952594767?




My idea is to use the same paint to repair the rear defroster but the container is really small, let's see.

Edited by - x96 on 10 Mar 2016 18:03:35
Go to Top of Page

x96
V4 Fanatic

France
238 Posts

Posted - 11 Mar 2016 :  19:09:11 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
Getting better ...







Héctor
Go to Top of Page

x96
V4 Fanatic

France
238 Posts

Posted - 11 Mar 2016 :  19:22:11 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
but still with problems...a clogged fuel lines right into the fuel tank. So it is very difficult to clean completely.
I flushed out the best I could, but far from perfect.
Maybe with an strong chemical product that could disolve the interior stuff.
outside it is a bit rusted.






Incredible, but it works





Héctor
Go to Top of Page

Derek
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1778 Posts

Posted - 12 Mar 2016 :  12:21:06 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Ouch, I very much doubt if you'll be able to do much with that sender but you might just turn round and say that it works fine! You should be able to see inside the tank with a small torch. That will give you an idea of hoe bad thngs are in there. The pick-up pipe is tucked into a corner wath asmall box around it (bad description maybe) and that area can clog up with rust. A good search of the forum will show up pictures of this as well as a tank with the top cut off if they are still "live". A proper clean out can be a challenge and might involve acid and balsting. " tanks I looked at had the inside tinned with lead but that had broken down in a few places. Nothing serious though so you maybe lucky. An arline with relatively low pressure up the out let pipe a good first move but start with blowing by moth via a length of hose. Ther amay or may not be a filter remaining on the insuide of this tube inside the tank and if a but clogged, high pressure air will likely blow it off the tube. Good luck
Do a forum search for rusty fuel tank and see what you find.

This is one result http://saab-v4.co.uk/speedball/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2804

Edited by - Derek on 12 Mar 2016 12:23:26
Go to Top of Page

x96
V4 Fanatic

France
238 Posts

Posted - 12 Mar 2016 :  19:14:22 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
IT's very useful, thanks Derek.

I cleaned it very quickly as I had to pass the MOT two days later. Fortunatelly it was a happy day and only had problem with the rear brakes that are unbalanced but under the limit for the MOT.


Héctor
Go to Top of Page
Page  of 15Previous Topic Topic Next Topic 
Previous Page | Next Page
 New Topic  Reply to Topic 
 Printer Friendly 
Jump To: 
Snitz Forums 2000
SAAB V4 Forum© 2000-04 Snitz CommunicationsGo To Top Of Page