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 SAAB 96 GL scrapyard run
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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2603 Posts

Posted - 08 Sep 2017 :  21:22:20 Show Profile Visit melle's Homepage Reply with Quote
Assumed carburation/ fuelling problems often turn out to be ignition issues I've found. Are you still running points ignition? If so, I would start by checking the points gap. Pattern parts are often of quite poor quality, with the fibre cams on the breaker points assembly wearing down fast. I always try and get proper Bosch stuff.

www.saabv4.com
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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
281 Posts

Posted - 12 Sep 2017 :  20:38:41 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
Yes, I can only agree with you but I would like to see the car running with the points to understand how it works, fuel consumption, acceleration, and so on, then switch to electronic points and compare the difference old days/new days. I only have an small doubt if doing this worths the time.

Points will have around 5.000 kms I suppose. From Finland to south Spain (Andalucia).
If I don't remember badly 10.000 was the mileage they advise to change points on older cars. But of course they can rust because of not working.
I have a longer list to set the engine correctly, spark plugs, wires, valves, timing...

But over all, when I accelerate it hard in the garage, sound like a plane, really exciting, I must admit, it is a love story.



Héctor
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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2603 Posts

Posted - 12 Sep 2017 :  20:56:20 Show Profile Visit melle's Homepage Reply with Quote
I'm not saying you should blindly replace parts, just check what you're working with. It never harms to check/ adjust the points gap and moreover, it costs nothing but five minutes of your life! Nothing wrong with points ignition if well maintained and properly tuned.

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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
281 Posts

Posted - 19 Jan 2018 :  19:03:10 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
well, a bit of time later I took a plane and tried to drive the car to the north, 1.000kms but she said she was happier in the south, with better temperatures and drier weather, I don't blame her, I think the same.
The engine started not bad after resting 6 months but suddenly came the problems, the carb floods again the engine, I think it will be again warped, so at start when it needs a lot of petrol works well with a very fast idle but when gets driving temperature there's too much petrol, floods and stalls. I can see the petrol going into the engine like a fountain.
I was able to make an small trip but coming back was a pain, the only way is to wait 20 minutes until the engine cools a bit and the petrol evaporates and then I have another 10 minutes to drive until floods again.
the village and country side is very nice but improves dramatically with the 96 on it.

checking tyres



Héctor
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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
281 Posts

Posted - 19 Jan 2018 :  19:07:06 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
[/url]

I was lucky as it stopped always on places where I could park manually pushing the car





Héctor
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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
281 Posts

Posted - 19 Jan 2018 :  19:12:10 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
I openend the carb at least 20 times, adjusting the float, screwed the bottom part harder and cancelling the booster but the problem remains so it is warped for sure.

[/url]





Héctor
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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
281 Posts

Posted - 19 Jan 2018 :  19:26:31 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote


So, the solution for the trip was the truck



The car is without heating, even so I planned the trip on winter, the south can be very hot on a SAAb without air conditioning.



Héctor
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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
281 Posts

Posted - 21 Jan 2018 :  12:41:30 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
Next step will be to fit a weber 32/36 as many of you recommend
My doub is how to deal with vacuum to the dizzy, and the air recirculation from the rocker cover. And also the air filter cover, it would be nice to be able to keep the typical big black box.

Héctor
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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2603 Posts

Posted - 21 Jan 2018 :  15:11:09 Show Profile Visit melle's Homepage Reply with Quote
Good to see you're still enjoying it, onwards and upwards!

I've put up with Solex TDIDs for more than a decade, and if they work they're really not a bad carb. Fact is that most are completely worn out (mostly warpage and worn spindles/ bores); you won't regret a Weber, also because of their supreme tunability (downside is you can no longer blame the carb if the engine runs like a pig!).

I currently have a Weber 28/36 DCD on the 96 with a modified Solex filter housing, something similar will no doubt work with a 32/36 DG(A/E)V, see my project thread: http://www.saab-v4.co.uk/speedball/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=31068&whichpage=1 Scroll through the thread for conversion photos. Crankcase ventilation system is standard with an added oil catch can before the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve.

Both types of Weber have a port for the vacuum advance, you should have no issues there. If you still have the PVS valve (positive vacuum supply, the black device in the coolant hose with the three vacuum lines), I would ditch it. The PVS system is meant to retard the ignition timing a degree or so at >104 degrees C coolant temperature to get the engine to run a bit colder. I've never noticed any difference without the valve, even when sitting in heavy traffic for prolonged periods of time (perhaps because the ones I used to have fitted weren't working anyway!).

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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
281 Posts

Posted - 22 Jan 2018 :  21:08:01 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
I must admit this car gives me a lot of fun. It's enough simple and without electronics. Easy to handle with. Of course I follow your thread but forget the things quickly

Have you tried to put a thin rubber gasket(1mm or so) between the two parts on a solex? I thought it could be a solution.

If it is not useful I will remove the PVS valve, and focus on the rest of the system.
It was warm when I drove the car, around 15 celsius degrees and the engine didn't heat too much and the pointer gauge kept under the middle position on the scale but things can change on summer running on highway.
I will check also the caps, I think it doesn't keep too much pressure on the system.

Héctor
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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
281 Posts

Posted - 19 Apr 2018 :  19:32:38 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
Last time I drove the car I understood why that spring was there. While driving with the freewheel on, after a while, the lever moves and goes to freewheel off, locking the device.

Do I have to think there’s something bad inside the gearbox/freewheel or it is just a weak spring on the plastic lever?





Héctor
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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2603 Posts

Posted - 19 Apr 2018 :  20:07:16 Show Profile Visit melle's Homepage Reply with Quote
I never use the freewheel and have blocked the lever with a suitable length of pipe with a big washer at each end around the rod; looks like your spring was meant to do the same. Taking the spring off the lever should improve the situation if you do want to use the freewheel. The spring now just pushes the lever out and disengages the freewheel.

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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
281 Posts

Posted - 20 Apr 2018 :  16:11:48 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote

Melle, what happen in fact is that I removed the spring and notice that while driving the lever moves forward by itself. I don’t know if because of the normal vibration of the engine or because of something inside the gearbox.



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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
281 Posts

Posted - 21 Apr 2018 :  19:00:39 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
Now in orange fits better



Héctor
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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
281 Posts

Posted - 21 Apr 2018 :  19:15:41 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
And the badges properly painted with the sides in black.



Héctor
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