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 SAAB 96 GL scrapyard run
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x96
V4 Fanatic

Spain
417 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2013 :  19:00:36 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Thanks for the comment, i've started to sand manually and reapair the fitting for the exhaust pipe, I don't have a welder so I had to use imagination.


After sanding I discover more rust but fortunately no holes on the steel.



The extrange mud protection was welded previously, under the primer there's more rust.

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Andyinthegarage
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
361 Posts

Posted - 29 Apr 2013 :  21:34:42 Show Profile Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by x96
I don't have a welder so I had to use imagination.



No welder!?!?! I don't think I could live without one...How else do you blow the trips in your junction box?

Impressed with your solutions, but really - save up and treat yourself to a MIG! It will pay for itself in the medium term let alone the long!
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x96
V4 Fanatic

Spain
417 Posts

Posted - 30 Apr 2013 :  20:59:12 Show Profile Reply with Quote
The problem is that I don't understand a word about welding, I would have to start with something simple to avoid get things worse with the 96.
The mig must be with gas or can be without? It seems that the option with gas must to have a legal contract for the bottle.

Sorry, I didn't understand this: "to blow the trips in your junction box"
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Dirtbiker
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1061 Posts

Posted - 30 Apr 2013 :  21:12:08 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Hi,

This site is pretty good for explaining where to start:
www.mig-welding.co.uk

Cheers
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x96
V4 Fanatic

Spain
417 Posts

Posted - 01 May 2013 :  22:20:09 Show Profile Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Dirtbiker
Hi,

This site is pretty good for explaining where to start:
www.mig-welding.co.uk

Cheers




excellent tutorials on that web, thanks.
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Andyinthegarage
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
361 Posts

Posted - 02 May 2013 :  18:49:54 Show Profile Reply with Quote
quote:

The mig must be with gas or can be without? It seems that the option with gas must to have a legal contract for the bottle.

Sorry, I didn't understand this: "to blow the trips in your junction box"



Don't panic, I really don't know anything more than I learned from the interweb or trial and error but I can stick metal together sometimes even in a way that you could call welding!

I use a MIG with it's associated small bottle of CO2 and both wire and gas come from standard tool shops - no licence required.

My reference to blowing trips is because I was given an old ARC welder before and all I could achieve was knocking out the electrical trip switches on my house's fuse box! Sorry - didn't mean to confuse!


I don't have the details of my welder with me, but perhaps someone else here as a suggested brand and model.


Edited by - Andyinthegarage on 02 May 2013 18:53:46
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x96
V4 Fanatic

Spain
417 Posts

Posted - 03 Jul 2013 :  22:07:02 Show Profile Reply with Quote
time to go ahead.
I've adjusted the float carb to the right model. With the previous situation maybe it could flood in very steep roads.

Another bit I've found is a big play in the link to the carb. something is missing. I've put washers but the play remains.



I've tried to move the same rubber washer



that it is in the back but the hole in the front is smaller.
Anyone has a photo of that part missing? Is it possible to buy that item?
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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
3833 Posts

Posted - 03 Jul 2013 :  23:42:20 Show Profile Reply with Quote
You mean you put that rubber grommet in the hole in the heater box?

1970 96V4 "The Devil's Own V4"
1977 95V4 van conversion project
1988 900i 8V
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Derek
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2191 Posts

Posted - 04 Jul 2013 :  11:52:23 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Yes the soft grommet is at the heater box end. Where is the play you're talking about? When they changed to the Solex I don't think Saab re engineered the mechanism beyond swapping in the adjustable but solid actuator arm. OK, the wire link to the FoMoCo wasn't brilliant but it was roughly inline, helped by the angled lever at the carb end. There was also a spring from the carb lever to the valve cover and an adjustable stop where the rod pivots on the manifold bracket. Don't know if the Solex set up has either of these. The adjustable stop allows you to have a small amount of slack in your adjustable carb rod link so that it settles back to tick over consistently and the long rear adjuster sets the throttle pedal position. Both have to be set together so that you get full opening of the carb butterfly.
Photos of the early set up available if you think they maybe useful.
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x96
V4 Fanatic

Spain
417 Posts

Posted - 04 Jul 2013 :  16:43:08 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Here you can see the place where it is a lot of play.


In fact the hole of the support is big enough for a rubber grommet similar to that in the heater box but not the same, the diameter of the holes are different.

This is the support screwed to the manifold and its big hole that permits the rod to move inside.
The hole is 0,5" and the rod 0,2"

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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
3833 Posts

Posted - 04 Jul 2013 :  18:07:09 Show Profile Reply with Quote
There should be a hard plastic bit with a flange that side (25 in image):



You need to have something soft at the other end since the engine vibrates.

1970 96V4 "The Devil's Own V4"
1977 95V4 van conversion project
1988 900i 8V
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x96
V4 Fanatic

Spain
417 Posts

Posted - 04 Jul 2013 :  22:36:45 Show Profile Reply with Quote
ok, now I see. I'll invent something similar.
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x96
V4 Fanatic

Spain
417 Posts

Posted - 13 Jul 2013 :  19:13:06 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I've found something similar that could work.
We'll see if it can manage the high temperatures on that place.



I like so much how a bit of spray paint can change the appearance of the part.

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x96
V4 Fanatic

Spain
417 Posts

Posted - 14 Jul 2013 :  22:16:26 Show Profile Reply with Quote
And now the funny part. Rust, rust and more rust.

Does anyone to know how to remove the bump stop? Unscrewing it?

The spring top limit is in bad conditions, I suppose it can be removed with the hammer. Is it possible to buy a new one at a reasonable price?






The bottom spring limit is in better conditions, with a bit of welding will be ok, but first I must to remove them, the nut look rusted.

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Woody
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2764 Posts

Posted - 14 Jul 2013 :  23:45:54 Show Profile Reply with Quote
The spacer unscrews to allow the upper spring mount to be removed. The Hex shape will also unscrew with a good dose of penetrating fluid.
The upper mounts are listed at Skandix at 169 euros but currently on back order.
http://www.skandix.de/en/spare-parts/suspension-steering/suspension/spring-cap/697/

There is a growing opinion amongst V4 owners that solid alloy items would be a suitable replacement.
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