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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
238 Posts

Posted - 14 Apr 2014 :  23:56:39 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
In the left corner inside the tank can be seen the valve that is pressed by the piston when this is working on low vacuum.



Héctor
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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
238 Posts

Posted - 16 Oct 2014 :  20:17:22 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
A little update. The petrol pump was leaking for a while and finally stopped. A new one from ebay and problem solved.



I had to add petrol from the top inside the pump, otherwise it didn't start.

Héctor

Edited by - x96 on 16 Oct 2014 20:20:52
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Derek
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1782 Posts

Posted - 17 Oct 2014 :  12:22:07 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Maybe a good idea to swap in a new piece of hose for the lower connection. Being the older cotton covered type you can't tell what the state of it is. A tiny crack in the rubber and the petrol just gets absorbed by the covering.
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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
238 Posts

Posted - 17 Oct 2014 :  21:14:18 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
I agree completely, Derek, thanks for the point.It is on the list, and also to cover that wire that I think it is the temperature sensor wire.
And, to find a cover for the engine heating plug. This is probably impossible, but I'll look for a cover that fits.

Héctor

Edited by - x96 on 17 Oct 2014 21:15:56
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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
238 Posts

Posted - 18 Oct 2014 :  22:43:03 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
I'll also add a non returning valve. Where is the best place? before the pump?
But I think I bought the wrong one, it seems too thin.



Héctor
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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
238 Posts

Posted - 26 Nov 2014 :  19:02:51 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
After fitting the new petrol pump, I have to adjust the carb. I don't know exactly how to proceed manually without other tools that the ear and the hands.
In the past, I had a VW polo with a pieburg carb and automatic choke. I remember that in cold, it was enough a couple of pushes in the accelerator to start the engine, I don't know if I could expect the same perfomance with the solex. Maybe not.
Certainly, this is not the case, I show you in the video that I have to push several times and even so, it takes a while to start the engine. After a time it stalls, maybe the mix is too poor but I also notice that the idle is a bit low, this can be adjusted in the automatic choke system but the long try starting would be the same.
The car has been parked for two weeks and the good thing is that there was petrol inside the filter, it means that the pump keeps the petrol and doesn't permit to come back the fuel to the tank.
Any hint is very welcome.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y5G9qzgFkbA&feature=youtu.be

Héctor
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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2283 Posts

Posted - 26 Nov 2014 :  19:38:28 Show Profile Visit melle's Homepage Reply with Quote
It is my experience that these particular Solex carbs are hard cold starters indeed. I've also tried fitting non-return valves in the past, both 6 and 8mm, but these made matters even worse. The choke on yours seems to be working as it should, although the choke flaps are maybe a tad too far open when cold. You can adjust this by turning the screw on top of the triangular lid on top of the choke housing. If you want the choke to open slightly later turn the choke housing clockwise.

I noticed the condenser to the side of the distributor, so I guess the car runs on points ignition? When I replaced the points on my 96 with Hall-ignition from a VW starting got much easier and the (warm) idle rose from 800 to about 1200 rpm before I readjusted the carb! The ignition definitely is something I overlooked in the past when trying to sort cold start issues.

1970 96V4 "The Devil's Own V4"
1977 95V4 van conversion project
1988 900i 8V
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ianh
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
227 Posts

Posted - 26 Nov 2014 :  19:53:19 Show Profile Reply with Quote
What are you using for an air filter? My solex came with a metal filter box but is too tall and will need quite a bit of work to get the bonnet to shut.
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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
238 Posts

Posted - 26 Nov 2014 :  21:27:26 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
Melle, there was 20C degrees in the garage, maybe that's why the choke flaps don't close completely. This autumn is very warm in the south.

I've read on this forum about the benefits of the electronic ignition, this reason you tell me is one more, but what stops me is that they burnt easily if I forget the key on, thing that happen continously when I'm working/adjusting the engine.

Do you know how to see if the mixture is correct? maybe it is lean and this doesn't help on cold.
Is it any procedure to adjust the mixture?

Héctor
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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
238 Posts

Posted - 26 Nov 2014 :  21:37:26 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
quote:
Originally posted by ianh
What are you using for an air filter? My solex came with a metal filter box but is too tall and will need quite a bit of work to get the bonnet to shut.



Ian, the filter box is the standard for a '79 saab 96GL with solex



Héctor
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ianh
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
227 Posts

Posted - 26 Nov 2014 :  21:48:08 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Thanks for that, I have the one fitted to the 1700 Ford Taunus, it is quite taller than the SAAB one you have fitted. Will start looking for the correct one.
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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2283 Posts

Posted - 27 Nov 2014 :  00:07:25 Show Profile Visit melle's Homepage Reply with Quote
Ian: You can modify the Taunus box to fit, but it's indeed too tall to fit under the bonnet as it comes. I might have a spare one for a Saab if you're interested.

Héctor: at 20C I would say the choke flaps should be 'closed'. I'm not 100% sure, but I think you should be able to fit a 3mm drill bit in the gap between the choke flaps and the carb body when the coke is 'fully' closed. It should be fully open at about 60-65C if I remember correctly, this can be adjusted by turning the choke housing as said before. You can adjust the mixture with the mixture screw (a small brass screw) in the bottom part of the carb. Screw it fully in (do not tighten!!) and then 1.5 turn open. Work from there, preferably with a co-meter. Also check that the idle jet is the right size (42.5 for 1.5 and 45 for 1.7) and that it's clean. It screws out from the outside of the carb.

You won't burn the ignition as I've built it, it's a proper Bosch system as found on '80s VW Golfs, Sciroccos, Jettas etc and Audis, Skodas and in different forms on many other cars. It's a slightly more sophisticated system than Pertronix and it's fitted with an ignition module. I've copied this idea, this modification is very popular for VW Beetles, which also use a distributor from the Bosch JFU4-family. I hope to convert a couple more distributors over Christmas, also with older electronic ignition systems (yes, that's a funny hobby indeed!). The V4 distributor is easiest to modify with parts from a VW/ Audi/ Skoda unit, but I'll also experiment with building a system from 900 stuff as that's easy to come by for most Saabists. Will do a write up when I find the time. See here for some pics in my thread on the Dutch forum: http://www.saabforum.nl/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=133892#p1533523

1970 96V4 "The Devil's Own V4"
1977 95V4 van conversion project
1988 900i 8V
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andydeans3
V4 Mad

United Kingdom
970 Posts

Posted - 27 Nov 2014 :  06:09:37 Show Profile Reply with Quote
IanH

I have a standard Air filter box, for the twin choke Solex carb, if you want it?
I've also got a redundant Twin choke solex, though it needs a new float.

Let me know.

Andy


1978 LHD SAAB 96
1978 MGB Roadster
2008 LHD "Classic" Renault Twingo
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x96
V4 Fanatic

France
238 Posts

Posted - 27 Nov 2014 :  21:02:28 Show Profile Visit x96's Homepage Reply with Quote
really interesting stuff Melle. I suppose the complexity of the system improve the performance of the ignition and it worths the effort.
I'll follow your steps.

The idle screw is more open than 1,5 turn.



Edited by - x96 on 27 Nov 2014 21:37:05
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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2283 Posts

Posted - 28 Nov 2014 :  21:55:31 Show Profile Visit melle's Homepage Reply with Quote
Yes, that screw is too far out, so the mixture must be way too rich or you have some major air leaks around the spindles and/or the carb base. Air leaks are very common on this type of Solex carb unfortunately. I suggest you set the idle mixture screw to 1.5 turns out, set the idle rpm a bit higher with the screw on the throttle lever (turn clockwise) and see if you can get it running from there. Now run the engine until it's reasonably warmed up (or better: drive it for a bit) and try and set the idle to approximately 800 rpm with the throttle lever screw (anti-clockwise). Then spray brake cleaner onto the carb base and the spindles; if the rpm goes up you have an air leak. Beware that if nothing changes you still can't be 100% sure you don't have leaks. Next step if you do not find any leaks is to go to a garage with a CO tester, CO should be around 0.5% if I remember correctly.

You can see the idle jet just above the mixture screw in your photo. Float level is OK? Carb looks nice and clean by the way.

It looks like your car still has (some) copper ignition leads; if so I would say replacing them with something a little more 21st century won't harm the cold start either.

1970 96V4 "The Devil's Own V4"
1977 95V4 van conversion project
1988 900i 8V
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