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 calipers and brake pipes
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thesaabologist
V4 Fanatic

318 Posts

Posted - 09 Jun 2012 :  13:01:47 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Started the project to swap my front brake pipes over - thought this will be an easy job!

To be able to rotate the brake pipe to remove it from the line and caliper, first I have to remove the caliper. I cannot undo the caliper bolts has hard as I try (knuckles grazed) - guess they have been on for 40 years - any ideas? System is the same as 95/96.

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1974 Sonett III

transit80
V4 Mad

United Kingdom
775 Posts

Posted - 09 Jun 2012 :  14:16:12 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Undo it from the other end first, then just spin it out of the caliper?.

Chris
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pchristy
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1737 Posts

Posted - 09 Jun 2012 :  19:22:07 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Looooong extension?

And remember there are (or should be!) tab washers securing them!

(the caliper bolts, that is!)

--
Pete
"Duct tape is like the Force: It has a light side and a dark side, and it binds the Universe together!"

Edited by - pchristy on 09 Jun 2012 19:22:44
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Woody
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2373 Posts

Posted - 10 Jun 2012 :  00:14:06 Show Profile Reply with Quote
For the caliper bolts you need to use the type of ring spaner that bears on the flat rather than the corners of the hex or a six sided socket. Can't remember what they are called. Give the bolts a good soaking of penetrating oil.

Edited by - Woody on 10 Jun 2012 00:18:09
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Andyinthegarage
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
357 Posts

Posted - 10 Jun 2012 :  11:04:03 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Good soak in penetrating oil for a day, then a bit of heat and spot of impact technology on the end of your extension bar with a lead mallet.

I can't remember the alignment for the calipers, but in awkward spots, I have sometimes been able to set up a wheel jack to apply tension to the extension bar. You can gradually increase the tension by degrees as you alternately heat and firmly tap the surrounding material to break the seal.

On occasion, setting up a jack like this, soaking in pen oil and leaving it alone was enough - next time I came back the bolt was loose.
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thesaabologist
V4 Fanatic

318 Posts

Posted - 10 Jun 2012 :  14:16:05 Show Profile Reply with Quote
bolts face into the wheel arch and are in a recessed area with the bleed nipple standing prouder - so I can get a socket on an extension stem with a short arm wrench or can get a ring spanner in direct with very limited movement but its a contortionist job and I can't get any leverage (and nothing to brace against).

I've got one of those clarke electrical impact drives but can't get clean line of sight - may try it on a knuckle (will need to get a 3/4 to 1/2 converter) - my spider senses are telling me that could be a bit dangerous!.

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1974 Sonett III
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thesaabologist
V4 Fanatic

318 Posts

Posted - 10 Jun 2012 :  21:34:22 Show Profile Reply with Quote
trip down to halfords - a long slim breaker bar purchased and then totally committed bravery and bruised ribs has done it! Thanks all for tips. Next step will be to remove the brake pipe from the break line - break pipe seems to be secured through the bodywork - pic to follow if I can post it.

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1974 Sonett III
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thesaabologist
V4 Fanatic

318 Posts

Posted - 11 Jun 2012 :  20:20:24 Show Profile Reply with Quote
pic on uksaabs

http://www.uksaabs.co.uk/UKS/viewtopic.php?f=12&t=97325

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1974 Sonett III
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Woody
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2373 Posts

Posted - 11 Jun 2012 :  21:01:20 Show Profile Reply with Quote
That is how they are fitted on the 95/6 V4. The flexi is wedged into the bracket and the nut on the inside retains it. You need a small head spanner to undo the nut.
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thesaabologist
V4 Fanatic

318 Posts

Posted - 11 Jun 2012 :  23:31:37 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Yes - i'd love one (size 15).

Managed to remove the old brake pipe and fit a new one with much messing around and swearing. Refitted calipers and brakes, topped up the brake fluid and quick pump of the brake pedal - very spongy and then noticed an inaccessible recess on the other side of the drive shaft tunnel filled with gravel and now brake fluid So tried a again and managed to get tighter - I really need that spanner.

Does this mean I need to bleed the system or just the caliper with the replaced pipe?

---------------
1974 Sonett III
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TTruckie
V4 Fanatic

United Kingdom
274 Posts

Posted - 12 Jun 2012 :  08:49:48 Show Profile Reply with Quote
as brake fluid is hydroscopic (absorbs water) it should be changed every 2 years anyway so best to bleed the system with fresh fluid.

I know it's a faff but it gives you the excuse to do it otherwise you never will.
get round to it.
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thesaabologist
V4 Fanatic

318 Posts

Posted - 12 Jun 2012 :  23:23:21 Show Profile Reply with Quote
is the collar on the brakeline (the bit the pipe screws into) supposed to rotate or have I bust it?

---------------
1974 Sonett III
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Woody
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2373 Posts

Posted - 13 Jun 2012 :  01:09:31 Show Profile Reply with Quote
By collar do you mean the nut on the brake pipe which should rotate and is retained by the flair in the end which abuts to the flexible pipe connection:-


Edited by - Woody on 13 Jun 2012 01:11:30
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thesaabologist
V4 Fanatic

318 Posts

Posted - 13 Jun 2012 :  19:17:19 Show Profile Reply with Quote
yes (that nut is attached to the hard brake pipe)

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1974 Sonett III
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thesaabologist
V4 Fanatic

318 Posts

Posted - 13 Jun 2012 :  20:02:08 Show Profile Reply with Quote
next question is do i need to bleed all 4 brakes or just the fronts on a 74 car?

---------------
1974 Sonett III
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Woody
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2373 Posts

Posted - 13 Jun 2012 :  20:18:57 Show Profile Reply with Quote
If you are replacing both front flexis then you will need to bleed the circuits front and rear as diagonal circuits, depending on how old the fluid is. If it is normal brake fluid, keep to that type and not mix with synthetic. The synthetic will cause the rubbers to swell in the wheel cylinders and master cylinder.

Edited by - Woody on 13 Jun 2012 20:21:31
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