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ianh V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 250 Posts | Posted - 23 Sep 2012 : 10:25:22
| I have just stripped my valve down in order to fit a new seal to find the old seal was one of these!
http://i1155.photobucket.com/albums/p549/ianph/41frFyXb2L_SX450__zpse600515e.jpg
Or a rubber suction cap from a child's bow and arrow set, no wonder it was leaking.
I am just a bit worried about bending the tabs of the valve back onto the body, knowing my luck they will break does anyone have any suggestions?
Ian
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Derek V4 Guru
United Kingdom 2191 Posts | Posted - 23 Sep 2012 : 12:14:10
| "I am just a bit worried about bending the tabs of the valve back onto the body, knowing my luck they will break does anyone have any suggestions?"
I've done one valve and the tabs on mine just about held but you could tell they'd weakened. Certainly they'd break if I tried to do it again. I think I would clean up the plate and the tabs and then squeeze the tabs down into blobs of JB Weld. A similar chemical metal would work too. If doing it this way perhaps not try to get the last couple of degrees of bend to get max tightness. Post pics. Woody did one a while back and also posted the results. A search should find it along with some pics I posted of a similar Ranco Volvo valve. | |
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ianh V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 250 Posts | Posted - 23 Sep 2012 : 13:00:03
| Thanks Derek, I hadn't thought of chemical metal. I will put off completing the job until I get back from holiday and have more time and not end up rushing . | |
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blue95V4 V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 415 Posts | Posted - 30 Sep 2012 : 11:32:41
| I went the "non-invasive" route on a leaking valve - just to see if it would work. Boiled the whole shebang in a large saucepan of kettle de-scaler (having already used it to descale the kettle!) for everal minutes. So far, so good, it's not leaking (yet). It's very clean, too.
David (in age order: me, 96 2T, 260-2 Saabo, 95 V4 and a c900S Aero Vert, plus a new-ish 9-3 Aero TTiD 180 SW) | |
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