Author | Topic |
72sonett3 V4 Fanatic
Spain 269 Posts | Posted - 11 Aug 2017 : 18:29:23
| You can weld in a single but thicker sheet, say 1.5 mm instead of 2x 0.7
Your rust spots all look quite standard... :-)
-- '72 97 '77 96L conv. '79 96GL (LPG) '83 900i (LPG) '95 900SE conv. '99 9-3T | Edited by - 72sonett3 on 11 Aug 2017 18:32:56 | |
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Betsy67 V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 409 Posts | Posted - 11 Aug 2017 : 20:08:13
| What a great diagram - well posted that man. | |
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Dynorog V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 249 Posts | Posted - 12 Aug 2017 : 06:09:54
| Thanks Martin I will avoid looking in all those areas :-) Cheers
Dynorog | |
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72sonett3 V4 Fanatic
Spain 269 Posts | Posted - 12 Aug 2017 : 11:32:58
| quote: I will avoid looking in all those areas.
You may try to fool anybody else, but not yourself.
-- '72 97 '77 96L conv. '79 96GL (LPG) '83 900i (LPG) '95 900SE conv. '99 9-3T | |
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Dynorog V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 249 Posts | Posted - 16 Aug 2017 : 20:42:29
| Well the hole has got bigger.I cut off the double skin plate and applied an initial coat of Hydrox Gel. I'll clean it up further and probably end up treating the whole inner wing as I have the rear.
In the meantime I've been trying to improve my welding as this is a bit of a serious location. I practiced for about 3/4hr, adjusting settings etc.and it seemed to improve. Bottom right was the starting point and top right last one. The second photo from underneath shows the penetration looking "OK"
Top side
Underside
I'll get hold of some 1.5mm plate as martin suggested and fab up a new plate.
Dynorog | |
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Dynorog V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 249 Posts | Posted - 16 Aug 2017 : 20:55:59
| I forgot to ask. The engine bay floor and the main floor pan have rusted through, quite small holes. They are in the corner where the curve of the inner wing meets the bulkhead and the floors. It's a triangular area, almost forms a sort of conical bit, ideal for retaining water. It wont have been helped by the original drain holes forward of this area being bunged up with under-seal. I can obviously plate the floors but i was wondering if anyone had modified this area to avoid the rust problems. Perhaps additional drain holes or some sort of baffle ?
Dynorog | |
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melle V4 Guru
United Kingdom 3830 Posts | Posted - 16 Aug 2017 : 21:03:29
| Interesting idea, never thought about it for some reason. I understand the design from a production viewpoint, but it's less than ideal from a maintenance perspective.
www.saabv4.com | |
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Betsy67 V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 409 Posts | Posted - 19 Aug 2017 : 18:24:50
| The settings will probably need to change once you go to thicker plate and are joining two pieces together. Think I repaired the 'corner' you're referring to. Some pics in my thread. Easy enough once you work out how the panels fit together at that point. | |
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Dynorog V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 249 Posts | Posted - 19 Aug 2017 : 19:10:03
| Thanks Steven . How do I find your thread? Cheers
Dynorog | |
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Betsy67 V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 409 Posts | Posted - 20 Aug 2017 : 07:07:34
| Beth's new seats and other things etc. Sorry, use my phone most of the time so pasting a link is beyond my capabilities ! | |
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Dynorog V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 249 Posts | Posted - 20 Aug 2017 : 10:10:45
| quote: Originally posted by Betsy67
Sorry, use my phone most of the time so pasting a link is beyond my capabilities !
Using anything to do that is beyond mine!
Dynorog | |
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Dynorog V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 249 Posts | Posted - 04 Sep 2017 : 16:20:12
| Well I finally got the front spring off, to give decent access for welding and a proper inspection.
Front os spring removed.
It has taken me ages. First of all I couldn't undo the bump stop it was rock solid. I tried to get pump pliers in after grinding them down a little but couldn't get enough grip to to budge it.I eventually resorted to knocking up a tool to get at it- I warn you it's not pretty but it did work.
Bump Stop tool
It comprises of a 42mm 'U'clamp with extended threads with flattened 19mm conduit as spacers to clear the spring perimeter to enable the nuts to be tightened.I took the jaws of the pump pliers which by this time I had broken!, ground them down to fit and welded them onto each side of the exhaust clamp. Welded on a length of conduit for the handle and to my surprise it worked. I ll put the photo on the tools thread.
I did try to get at the lower stops but without the engine/gearbox in the whole car was lifting off the 4 axle stands.I did think of asking my wife to sit in the engine bay to keep it down but she isn't fat enough -yet.(she doesn't read this thread... I hope!)
Although I have never had trouble in removing springs in the past, the things I have seen written about removing these Saab springs made me a little nervous, so I bought an hydraulic compressor - which didn't fit because it didn't have enough adjustment to fit the spring( would not go short enough.)so I had the thread lengthened to suite. I didn't ask for it to be cut shorter though! but that's another story. It still didn't fit! Although the clamps fit, the spring was so distorted I couldn't get them into the spring when connected to the hydraulic ram. I couldn't square it up as I said previously the whole car was lifting. In the end I ground down some spring clamps a little to give them a better fit and it came out no trouble.
Dynorog | |
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melle V4 Guru
United Kingdom 3830 Posts | Posted - 05 Sep 2017 : 19:08:09
| Love your bump stop removal tool!
www.saabv4.com | |
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Dynorog V4 Fanatic
United Kingdom 249 Posts | Posted - 06 Sep 2017 : 18:15:59
| [quote]Originally posted by melle Love your bump stop removal tool!
www.saabv4.com Well I thought it's resemblance to a delicate scientific instrument would appeal[:)
Dynorog | |
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melle V4 Guru
United Kingdom 3830 Posts | Posted - 06 Sep 2017 : 19:51:13
| It certainly does, I'm a sucker for precision engineering!
www.saabv4.com | |
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