Author | Topic  |
Dirtbiker V4 Mad
   
United Kingdom 967 Posts | Posted - 08 Jun 2022 : 22:47:32 
| Hi, Still working through jobs on the 95 to get it running right. Next on the quest is to deal with this

I am planning on giving the fuel tank the loose nuts and bolts in the cement mixer treatment this weekend and would like to then coat the inside with one of the products you can buy from companies like Frosts.
Has anyone got any experience of any of these. I would favour simplicity over everything else as hate anything to do with paint...
Cheers |
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chris steeden V4 Fan
 
United Kingdom 157 Posts | Posted - 09 Jun 2022 : 07:08:40 
| My friend had a simular trouble with his 96 and your 95 may well have the same. Construction of the 96 fuel tank doesn''t allow for the nuts and bolt treatment to have much success. Hope this link works -
http://saab-v4.co.uk/speedball/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=2804 |  |
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Derek V4 Guru
    
United Kingdom 2095 Posts | |
Dirtbiker V4 Mad
   
United Kingdom 967 Posts | Posted - 10 Jun 2022 : 19:40:32 
| And there was me hoping for a nice easy fix! Perhaps a 95 tank is of a simpler construction as it is lower and flatter maybe meaning it doesn’t need baffles? Anyway, I’ll investigate, I even have a rusty one I can open for a look if need be. Thanks for the replies and I’ll keep you posted on findings! |  |
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UK_Sub V4 Guru
    
United Kingdom 2432 Posts | Posted - 11 Jun 2022 : 11:18:40 
| Here's some photos from someone I follow on instagram @robertrashbrook that might help...


Cutting open a fuel tank takes some nerve, when I brazed my breather pipe - I filled it full of water first (was still a bit nerve racking though).
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melle V4 Guru
    
United Kingdom 3571 Posts | Posted - 11 Jun 2022 : 12:50:21 
| Drill a pilot hole and use a jigsaw instead?
www.saabv4.com |  |
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chris steeden V4 Fan
 
United Kingdom 157 Posts | Posted - 12 Jun 2022 : 17:32:06 
| I just caught up with my mate who cut his Bullnose tank open and I asked him how he did it. He worked in the 'Gas Industry' and knew all about upper and lower explosive limits. It is all down to the degree of explosive vapours left in the tank. With the tank removed from the car he emptied the tank of fuel or as much as he could and removed the fuel sender unit still getting some residual petrol out of the sender hole. He connected by gaffa taping a wet and dry vacuum cleaner set on BLOW to the fuel filler pipe. He turned the tank on its end with the sender hole at the bottom and left the vacuum blowing clear air through the tank for about 20 minutes. With the blowing vacuum still going he angle grinded the top of the tank and hey presto! a nice work area to clean the tank. He said that, if your tank has the small metal rectangular box around the line pick-up point inside the tank seen hopefully through the fuel sender hole then make sure that the cut section is in the right place to gain access prise this box open. No meed to fill the tank with water or sand just continued forced air. Whatever way you tackle the job, I hope it works for you and wishing you all the best. |  |
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Dirtbiker V4 Mad
   
United Kingdom 967 Posts | Posted - 13 Jun 2022 : 17:02:46 
| Thanks for the replies everyone. Simon - photos very helpful! Chris - I think I will fill with water as I don’t have a blower plus I think I would be too scared! Plan is to treat it as two sections. One accessed through the sender, the other I will use a hole saw. Then add nuts and bolts and put in cement mixer. Might add some deox C? Then coat inside with some kind of petrol resistant paint. Tank is out and drained, I’ll add a pic of the silt that came out just doing that! |  |
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Dirtbiker V4 Mad
   
United Kingdom 967 Posts | |
Dirtbiker V4 Mad
   
United Kingdom 967 Posts | Posted - 13 Jun 2022 : 22:09:03 
| Does anyone have any tips for checking the metal hard line from front to back of the car is clear? I tried feeding some welding wire down there but it didn’t want to go around the tighter corners. Cheers |  |
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UK_Sub V4 Guru
    
United Kingdom 2432 Posts | Posted - 14 Jun 2022 : 08:59:50 
| I used that por15 stuff in a 95 tank once, and it sealed the flap on the filler neck! The sealer creates a kind of plastic skin and if it doesn't completely bond with the metal surface, it just flaps around and eventually breaks off, causing blockages.
You can probably tell, I wouldn't recommend it. |  |
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Betsy67 V4 Fanatic
  
United Kingdom 409 Posts | Posted - 16 Jun 2022 : 19:36:51 
| I’ve used the POR treatment on the tank in my splitter. Been in over 10 years and no problems as yet. I think Frost do cleaner too ? I’m not sure if the Splitty tank is baffled or not. |  |
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Dirtbiker V4 Mad
   
United Kingdom 967 Posts | Posted - 16 Jun 2022 : 19:54:58 
| Hi guys and thanks for the info. Simon, I had already ordered the kit when you posted. It comes with two other tins of gloop and the instructions are quite strict about getting it 100% dry before putting the final one in I’ll probably mess it up! Hoping to get it done at the weekend, I’ll let you know how it goes. Cheers |  |
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UK_Sub V4 Guru
    
United Kingdom 2432 Posts | Posted - 17 Jun 2022 : 11:26:18 
| You'll probably do a better job than I did. I remember Graham Macdonald warning me about using a sealant in a 95 tank and he was right, but it could have been that I didn't do it right.
I don't know if it's worth putting something down the filler neck, breather and pickup pipes so they don't seal up? |  |
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Derek V4 Guru
    
United Kingdom 2095 Posts | Posted - 17 Jun 2022 : 12:06:29 
| Take your time with the POR kit. Do it over several days to give each stage the best chance of working. |  |
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Dirtbiker V4 Mad
   
United Kingdom 967 Posts | Posted - 17 Jun 2022 : 21:29:18 
| Thanks, I’ll take my time and I also think I will block pick up pipe probably with electrical wire of a suitable diameter. I have started the first mix of cleaner/degreaser and am around all weekend so can do a bit here and there. Cheers |  |
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