SAAB V4 Forum
SAAB V4 Forum
Home | Profile | Register | Active Topics | Members | Search | FAQ
Username:
Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

 All Forums
 Technical
 General Technical
 Clutch help please!
 New Topic  Reply to Topic 
 Printer Friendly 
Previous Page | Next Page
AuthorPrevious Topic Topic Next Topic
Page  of 4

Dirtbiker
V4 Mad

United Kingdom
637 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2014 :  10:38:10 Show Profile Visit Dirtbiker's Homepage Reply with Quote
I would agree with TTruckie - release arm contacting the pressure plate. I reckon that's got to be an engine out investigation.

But, it's a new project and you want to drive it around for a bit enjoying the sunshine... How about a block of wood inside the car below the clutch pedal just the right size for the car to go into gear but without the horrible noise...?

Cheers

Gareth
Go to Top of Page

UK_Sub
Moderator

United Kingdom
2154 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2014 :  11:33:50 Show Profile Reply with Quote
So undoing the adjustment bolt won't make any difference?
Go to Top of Page

Lupo
V4 Fan

Switzerland
105 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2014 :  11:59:58 Show Profile Reply with Quote
If you release adjusting bolt it shift the arm back and could avoid the contact with the pressure plate but then the move of release bearing may not sufficiently press the clutch to free the disk to enable to change gears. It needs a little time to play with adjusting bolt.
Go to Top of Page

Lupo
V4 Fan

Switzerland
105 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2014 :  12:13:32 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Dont forget to have 4 mm free movement measured on slave cylinder/release arm joint.
Go to Top of Page

Dirtbiker
V4 Mad

United Kingdom
637 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2014 :  12:16:20 Show Profile Visit Dirtbiker's Homepage Reply with Quote
I agree with what Lupo says. IIRC with the adjusting bolt correctly adjusted there should be 4mm of free play on the arm where you can get to it through the inspection hole.
Pretty sure there is a picture of this in all the manuals but at work right now - will check later.
Cheers

Edit - looks like 4mm is correct - Lupo must have posted that while I was typing!

Edited by - Dirtbiker on 28 Apr 2014 12:17:25
Go to Top of Page

Lupo
V4 Fan

Switzerland
105 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2014 :  12:31:10 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Ill have endoscope here end of this week, so Ill try to make some photos inside to see whats going on with my clutch, probably the story is identical.
Go to Top of Page

UK_Sub
Moderator

United Kingdom
2154 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2014 :  12:55:40 Show Profile Reply with Quote
That's a cool idea - would you insert the camera where the slave cylinder arm goes or through the vent cover (removed)?

Just looked on Amazon and they're (endoscope cameras) only 20 which doesn't sound too bad...

BTW I do have about 4mm play on the end of the slave cylinder/release arm - is the play effected by the adjustment bolt? Apologies for dumb questions, I know nothing about clutches!
Go to Top of Page

Lupo
V4 Fan

Switzerland
105 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2014 :  13:22:49 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Ill insert it through vent check opening. Once your free play is 4 mm , there is no sense to touch adjustment bolt. The problem is somewhere else. I suppose the nose of the arm (part where top bearing nipple hangs) touches the release plate mechanism. Once Im sure of it Ill show you my solution.
Go to Top of Page

pchristy
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1768 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2014 :  13:35:35 Show Profile Reply with Quote
This is what the adjuster should look like:



and here's the slave cylinder, though there's quite a lot in the way!



A couple of washers under the head of the bolt is fine, as long as the bolt does up tight and doesn't "bottom", but there shouldn't be any between the slave cylinder and the casting that the bolt passes through.

Check that the slave cylinder is fully retracting when the pedal is released. If its not going fully back home, then this is the equivalent of packing the slave forward, which you shouldn't do. Its probably worth putting new seals in the hydraulics whilst you're at it anyway.

Your adjuster looks bodged!

I'll scan the clutch section from the manual and get it off to you as requested, probably later today. But I think you are going to have to resign yourself to removing the engine to see clearly what is going on.....





--
Pete
"Duct tape is like the Force: It has a light side and a dark side, and it binds the Universe together!"
Go to Top of Page

UK_Sub
Moderator

United Kingdom
2154 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2014 :  14:14:10 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Thanks for that Pete.

Anyone got a spare adjustment bolt?
Go to Top of Page

Borstlap
V4 Fanatic

Norway
274 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2014 :  16:39:28 Show Profile Reply with Quote
The adjustment bolt is bog standard metric thread, don't recall if it is M6 or M8. Long ago when I was still young and ignorant I screwed it down way too hard and broke it. It was a bear to get the broken stump out of the gearbox casing, but replacement was dead easy.

Alex
Go to Top of Page

pchristy
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1768 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2014 :  16:58:23 Show Profile Reply with Quote
The bolt itself looks right - square head. But, I don't think it should be that far in, AND there should be a lock-nut under it rather than a pile of washers. Look at the pix of mine, and you can see that its much further out, and is locked in place with an extra nut. Something definitely not right there!

Its also worth checking that the hydraulics are working correctly, as I described. But if it was me, I'd want the engine out to see what was going on anyway!



--
Pete
"Duct tape is like the Force: It has a light side and a dark side, and it binds the Universe together!"
Go to Top of Page

UK_Sub
Moderator

United Kingdom
2154 Posts

Posted - 28 Apr 2014 :  17:19:31 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I hadn't noticed it had a square head - I'll see if any adjustment helps and check the throw of the slave cylinder and take some more photos!

Thanks all, for your help. Kind of looking forward to whipping out the engine - if you call 4 hours of bending over the engine - fun!?!
Go to Top of Page

UK_Sub
Moderator

United Kingdom
2154 Posts

Posted - 29 Apr 2014 :  10:01:25 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Had another look when I got home, this is where the arm sits at rest...


and then when the clutch pedal is pressed to the floor...


So I unwound the adjustment bolt to about where Derek has his...


this gave me a very light clutch pedal and I could press it to the floor without any noises, but I couldn't put it into gear. So a bit of experimenting with gradually tightening the blot gave me no noises on depression, noiseless gear changes but a very low biting point. Still some experimenting to do, but I should be able to drive it to Swedish Day!
Go to Top of Page

Derek
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1816 Posts

Posted - 29 Apr 2014 :  12:08:41 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Probably worth bleeding the system before you make final adjustments. It might add a little more movement to the arm and enable you to bring the bite point up a bit.
I'd guess you meant Peter not Derek.... Good luck with the new beast. You're always asking for pictures so where's yours.
Go to Top of Page
Page  of 4Previous Topic Topic Next Topic 
Previous Page | Next Page
 New Topic  Reply to Topic 
 Printer Friendly 
Jump To: 
Snitz Forums 2000
SAAB V4 Forum© 2000-04 Snitz CommunicationsGo To Top Of Page