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 'RUF' my opal green shocker!
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Dirtbiker
V4 Mad

United Kingdom
625 Posts

Posted - 01 Feb 2016 :  17:58:35 Show Profile Visit Dirtbiker's Homepage Reply with Quote
Hi,

The bit in the middle of the spring is the bump stop (if we are thinking of the same thing!)

It is rubber bonded to a large hex which is in turn attached to a stud (M10 I think) that screws into the car. Not much point taking these off if the spring isn't coming off but be careful as the rubber can be broken away from the hex plate if you are not careful - ask me how I know!

That inner wing looks lovely and clean!

Cheers
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Zagato
V4 Mad

United Kingdom
755 Posts

Posted - 02 Feb 2016 :  07:50:25 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Thanks mate, should know better. Only done leaf springs on a Series Landy before but should have known it was a rubber stop! no need to do anything with it for the time being which is good.

Advice - as the original springs have done 70k and are 40 years old is it worth putting some new shocks on from Malbrad, or leave the existing original ones on which look OK?

Could put these ones on which may be less rusty, need to clean mine up and have a look first.




1977 96L Opal Green
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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2541 Posts

Posted - 02 Feb 2016 :  11:48:29 Show Profile Visit melle's Homepage Reply with Quote
If the shocks look good and feel firm enough I would only replace the rubber bushings, they're standard parts you can get at any good motor factors.

www.saabv4.com
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Zagato
V4 Mad

United Kingdom
755 Posts

Posted - 02 Feb 2016 :  13:44:49 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Thanks Melle, bushings are good amazingly, no cracks at all, would like to take them off to check the condition of the "pegs" that they hang on though. took the nut and washer off and no rust on inside metal bushing, they must have been done fairly recently!

Going back to the cone the bump stop attaches too, just scraped the underseal off and there is surface rust on one side. Do these rot from the inside out also, just wondering if I should take them off and check the inners at some point, difficult for rain, muck to get in them!!??



1977 96L Opal Green

Edited by - Zagato on 02 Feb 2016 13:46:44
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Zagato
V4 Mad

United Kingdom
755 Posts

Posted - 02 Feb 2016 :  14:31:56 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Think this is a good solution, ACF-50 on the seams etc and Dinitrol underbody wax over the top. It doesn,t harden over the ACF-50 but still protects and goes off properly over the main large areas where there is no ACF-50. I can now check on the seams etc every couple of years or so without having to do lots of scraping. I havn,t put it on as thick as the original SAAB underseal which certainly did it,s job well from new for 40 years... Dinitrol also gives a smooth matt black finish so it looks pretty tidy, always a worry for clients with new Defenders, they don,t want a thick black running wax over there new chassis! They want it to look smart...



1977 96L Opal Green

Edited by - Zagato on 02 Feb 2016 14:35:28
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Zagato
V4 Mad

United Kingdom
755 Posts

Posted - 03 Feb 2016 :  13:36:51 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Pulled a late one last night and cracked on this morning to take the underseal off the bottom of 'RUF' and to my relief she is beautiful underneath - phew! Unlike the underseal on the wings which took ages to get off this just stripped off in sheets, definitely needed checking and will spray fresh Dinitrol on after treating bits of surface rust.



Just need to get all those little black bits of underseal off...



Can see underseal hanging off in sheets Yee Ha! Having spent must be 3 days on each wing trying to get it off carefully..,



1977 96L Opal Green
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john-saab
Administrator

United Kingdom
2669 Posts

Posted - 03 Feb 2016 :  14:31:30 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Are we going to see this at Swedish Day this year?

'73 96 (Vernon),'74 95 (Veronica)plus 4 other 95's and 2 96's
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James Ranaldi
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1383 Posts

Posted - 03 Feb 2016 :  16:47:08 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Luckeeee
Looking extremely good

The springs look like they are " curved " rather than straight if that makes sense !

What is the normal shape ? Just wondering as I would have expected the springs to act in a straight line.

1968 V4, LHD
1984 99 GL
1992 900i Convertible

Edited by - James Ranaldi on 03 Feb 2016 16:51:00
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melle
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
2541 Posts

Posted - 03 Feb 2016 :  16:57:41 Show Profile Visit melle's Homepage Reply with Quote
When the weight of the engine and box is back in they'll be "straight" again. Magic!

www.saabv4.com
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James Ranaldi
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1383 Posts

Posted - 03 Feb 2016 :  19:52:20 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Ah hah . . . . .I have never seen mine with the engine out !

1968 V4, LHD
1984 99 GL
1992 900i Convertible
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Zagato
V4 Mad

United Kingdom
755 Posts

Posted - 04 Feb 2016 :  09:42:05 Show Profile Reply with Quote
I was wondering the same, thanks for that Melle.

Not sure about Swedish Day John, I have it tentatively booked in with G Mac in a couple of months for clutch, balance shaft, timing gears, gearbox check over etc, all depends if i find a nice 9000 in the meantime as funds are limited. I also really hate to put it all back together with scruffy bits, it looks ok in pictures but the engine bays is a reall mess and everything that goes in it. I could carry on with body work and move onto doing up the mechanicals and have an engine bay, wings, bonnet, font panel respray (can,t afford the whole thing to be done sadly which will mean doing it all again in the near future for a whole respray or just shove it all back in as is to just get her on the road. Think it will be the latter...

1977 96L Opal Green
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john wyatt
V4 Guru

United Kingdom
1030 Posts

Posted - 04 Feb 2016 :  19:01:44 Show Profile Reply with Quote
Looks amazing underneath, why not just paint and detail engine bay only when you have motor out?
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Zagato
V4 Mad

United Kingdom
755 Posts

Posted - 04 Feb 2016 :  22:58:03 Show Profile Reply with Quote
That,s what I thought originally John but then It won,t match when I do the rest at a later point.

Thinking of it though it will never match as the outside will fade anyway.... Yeah you might be right, would be a dream come true after all these years to have a spanking, freshly painted engine bay . Just make up enough paint for the whole body and keep it until I can afford the rest of the body... Need another 5k if I do prep work myself, got 2k going out a month on new house stuff at moment moan but business going well with the Defenders, now booked up until mid April and I don,t even advertise yet,

1977 96L Opal Green
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Dirtbiker
V4 Mad

United Kingdom
625 Posts

Posted - 05 Feb 2016 :  08:01:42 Show Profile Visit Dirtbiker's Homepage Reply with Quote
I would agree with John, get the bay done while all the bits are out, saves doing a job twice. 5K? What Five Thousand Pounds? Is that how much it costs to paint a car? Blimey, glad I'm never too worried about what the outside of these things looks like - no wonder Patina is in fashion!

In all seriousness though, car is in lovely condition underneath so I reckon well worth spending money on to make perfect.

Cheers
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UK_Sub
Moderator

United Kingdom
2152 Posts

Posted - 05 Feb 2016 :  09:39:39 Show Profile Reply with Quote
My orange 95 cost 600 (2pack paint) to spray (outside of the shell only mind) and is still looks great 4 years later.
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