Last week-end when the weather was foul and I couldn't roll the Troll out, I looked for something I could do and started messing with two rheostat switches that didn't work. Both had had the vinegar treatment but still were not functioning. I wanted to find out why. Closer inspection revealed that the internal metal contact wasn't in full contact with the wire coil as the springs which acted on the contact has broken or failed. I opened up the switch after removing one end of each rivet. The two small springs which rest in the two holes in the central part had rusted away. I found a compatible spring in a box of ancient carburettor parts and cut two to length and re-assembled to switch. Now fully functioning.
Very interesting and great pictures, thanks. it's written on my list. I try to figure out a situation where is necessary to dimm the already very dimmed gauges lights and I don't find one. Maybe anticipates the black panel feature
Just to add a note on this. When the rivets are too short to lap over they can still be used but find a short screw that is just larger than the internal hole in the rivet...screw that in and it will hold the 2 parts together. Beware of using a screw that gives a lot of resistance when tapping it in ..you will either chew the rivet up or break the rheostat body.
'73 96 (Vernon),'74 95 (Veronica)plus 4 other 95's and 2 96's
Nice work. Good write up too. Just a thought on those rivets. Would be is possible to counter bore the plastic body a small amount to give a new shoulder for the shortened rivet to grip against?